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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 🇲🇽
Isla Mujeres is an island in the Caribbean Sea, famous for its beaches and considered an ideal destination for relaxing 😊. It was our last stop, after almost a month exploring Mexico. Just 13 km (8 miles) off the coast of Cancún, it’s known for its white sand beaches and crystal-clear water. To discover the south of the island, check out our article on southern Isla Mujeres 📝.
According to Mayan legend, the island was dedicated to Ixchel, goddess of the moon and fertility, and women came here to make offerings. That’s how it got the name Isla Mujeres, “the island of women.”
In this article, we take you to the north of Isla Mujeres and its famous Playa Norte: a nice spot, but maybe a bit overrated for our taste 😕.
👉 Planning your trip? Also read our 10 things to know before visiting Mexico.
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
PLAYA NORTE: ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BEACHES IN THE WORLD? OUR REVIEW 😑
Playa Norte is often listed among the most beautiful beaches in the world. It’s easy to get to, and it’s public and free: you can lay your towel down between the beach clubs. Personally, during our visit in October 2021, the water was a bit cloudy, with lots of motorboats and patches of seaweed…
Concretely and objectively, for me it’s not one of the most beautiful beaches in the world ☹️. Having traveled to Sardinia, I’ve seen much more beautiful beaches. Playa Norte is still a nice place to discover if you go to Isla Mujeres 👍, especially for the sunset, since the beach faces west.
PUBLIC BEACHES AND BEACH CLUBS
All around, lots of beach clubs and hotels offer loungers and umbrellas, usually with a minimum spend of about 200 to 500 pesos (€10 to €24). We didn’t get a lounger; a towel is plenty! You can tell the island is very popular with Americans and Canadians: you can even pay in dollars, which I don’t recommend.
PUNTA NORTE AND THE PISCINA DEL REY
The north of the island is much more built up than the south 🧱, with lots of all-inclusive hotels. One of them, the Mia Reef Isla Mujeres, occupies the northern tip: in 2021, it kept us from reaching the Piscina del Rey, a natural pool, on foot. Today, access seems possible with a day pass from the hotel; check with them directly.
DOWNTOWN ISLA MUJERES: A BEACH RESORT TOWN 😑
The north of the island is where you’ll find most of the restaurants and souvenir shops 🛍️. Northern Isla Mujeres reminds me of our French beach resorts, like Le Grau-du-Roi or La Grande-Motte 😂. Nothing exceptional, just lots of shops where you’re seen as a bottomless wallet. Isla Mujeres was probably the most expensive island of our trip, ahead of Cozumel and Holbox. You can see the north of the island in half a day 😉.
HOW TO GET TO ISLA MUJERES FROM CANCÚN: THE FERRY ⛴️
ULTRAMAR FERRY PRICES AND SCHEDULE
The only way to reach the island is by ferry. The Ultramar company leaves from Puerto Juárez (Gran Puerto), north of Cancún, or from the Hotel Zone (Playa Tortugas, Playa Caracol). Count on about 290 pesos one way (€14) and 580 pesos round trip (€28) per adult, for a 15- to 30-minute crossing. From Puerto Juárez, departures run about every 30 minutes, from 5:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. From the Hotel Zone, the last return leaves earlier, around 7 p.m. Prices go up regularly: check them before you go.
THE ISLAND ENTRY FEE
An environmental sanitation fee of about 37 pesos (€1.75) is charged to visitors: it’s usually added straight to the ferry ticket.
WHERE TO PARK TO CATCH THE FERRY
A car isn’t recommended on the island: we left our rental car in the port parking lot, for 100 pesos a day (about €5) in 2021, a price to check on site. Feel free to check out my article on renting a car in Mexico.
RENTING A CAR IN MEXICO 🚗
To explore Yucatán and Quintana Roo, we think a rental car is the best option: you’re free to string together cenotes, Mayan sites and beaches at your own pace, without depending on bus schedules or organized tours 🌴.
We did our whole one-month road trip by car, and everything went really well. Here’s the agency we used and recommend, plus an alternative if you’d rather compare 👇
Our rental tip
Renting a car in Mexico
The agency we used, and an alternative to compare.
TouraCancun
Car rental in Mexico
We rented with them for our whole road trip: we recommend them without hesitation!
Our budget€95028 days, insurance included · ~€34/day
- Tested for 1 month
- Pick-up in Cancún
- Our go-to in Mexico
DiscoverCars
Rental comparison site
To compare several rental companies in a single search.
Excellent rating290,000+ Trustpilot reviews
- 1,000+ rental companies compared
- Free cancellation
- 24/7 support
To compare before you choose
Good to know before you rent
- Third-party liability insurance is mandatoryIn Mexico, it's often not included in the price shown online: check before you pay.
- A deposit on a credit cardAn amount is held on your card for the whole rental. Bring a card with a high enough limit.
- Your French driving license is enoughIt's accepted for tourists. The international driving permit is optional: only if you want one.
- Photos and video at pick-upFilm the car from every angle when you collect it, to avoid any dispute when you return it.
- Filling up at the gas stationCheck that the pump meter is at zero before the attendant starts.
- Watch out for “topes”These speed bumps are everywhere, sometimes without a sign: slow down as you enter villages.
GETTING AROUND THE ISLAND: ON FOOT, BY TAXI OR GOLF CART 🛺
- 🚶 On foot: that’s what we did most of the time, since most hotels are in the north, very close to the beach.
- 🚕 By taxi: our other way of getting around the island, handy for reaching the south. There are lots of taxis, but it can get expensive fast.
- 🛺 By golf cart: the most popular way to get around, but count on about €55 to €85 a day, more in high season. Many run on gas, and they stink: the smell of exhaust is very noticeable downtown.
- 🛵 By scooter: another option, to rent on site.
We didn’t take the island’s local bus: on foot or by taxi is plenty to enjoy the north.
TOURS TO DISCOVER ISLA MUJERES 
It’ll depend on you and what you feel like: there are lots of tours on Isla Mujeres for every budget 💰. The great thing about Isla Mujeres, as with many tourist spots like Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam, Uxmal, Cenote Ik Kil… is that you’ll find everything you need and can choose the tour that suits you.
If you don’t plan ahead, there are still plenty of agencies on the island. If you’re the planning-ahead type (like me), you can absolutely book in advance online: you’ll find lots of tours on GetYourGuide
For our part, we went snorkeling in the south of the island, which is much more natural. And if you love the underwater world, don’t miss snorkeling in Cozumel, one of our best memories.
WHEN TO GO TO ISLA MUJERES? ☀️
The dry season, from November to April, has the best weather and clearer water. The rainy and hurricane season runs from June to November, peaking from August to October: we were there in October. As for sargassum, Playa Norte is sheltered and often less affected than Cancún’s beaches, but not always, especially in spring and summer.
OUR TIPS FOR VISITING NORTHERN ISLA MUJERES 🥰
As in all our articles, here are a few tips for visiting Isla Mujeres:
- Most hotels are in the north of the island: no need for a golf cart to get to the beach.
- Lots of private beaches 😶, but Playa Norte is still public and free.
- You can pay in dollars: I don’t recommend it, you’ll lose out on the exchange rate. Bring pesos: read our article Where to withdraw money in Mexico.
- The northern tip of the island was off-limits on foot during our visit, because of a hotel 😡.
- A car isn’t recommended on the island.
- The island is very touristy: everything costs more.
- The sea is very warm ♨️.
- Taxis and the return ferry: keep an eye on the time of the last departure.
OUR REVIEW OF NORTHERN ISLA MUJERES 💭
You’ve probably figured it out while reading this article: it’s not a place we’ll remember fondly 😆. The north of Isla Mujeres is completely different from the south of the island. Lots of concrete, lots of hotels (all-inclusive), private beaches, gas fumes all over the island and Playa Norte is way overrated 🙄.
Go for the south of the island for a day to make the most of what Isla Mujeres has to offer in terms of change of scenery and natural beauty 💚. If you want to know more about southern Isla Mujeres, feel free to read my article about it. The island is developing very fast, and not necessarily in a good way… Even so, this island can be a fun day trip from Cancún.
👉 What about you? What did you think of northern Isla Mujeres?
FAQ: ISLA MUJERES AND PLAYA NORTE ❓
These are the questions people often ask before going to Isla Mujeres. Feel free to ask yours in the comments, and I’ll add to this FAQ 💬.
Yes, the beach is public: you can lay your towel down for free between the beach clubs. For a lounger or umbrella, count on a minimum spend of about 200 to 500 pesos (€10 to €24). We didn’t get one.
Take the Ultramar ferry from Puerto Juárez, or from the Hotel Zone (Playa Tortugas, Playa Caracol). The crossing takes 15 to 30 minutes. We left our rental car in the port parking lot.
Count on about 290 pesos one way (€14) and 580 pesos round trip (€28) per adult. Prices go up regularly: check them before you go.
Yes, an environmental sanitation fee of about 37 pesos (€1.75) is charged, usually added to the ferry ticket. The amount may change.
From Puerto Juárez, departures run about every 30 minutes, from 5:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. From the Hotel Zone, the last return leaves around 7 p.m.
Count on about €55 to €85 a day, more in high season. In the north, you don’t really need one: we got around on foot and by taxi.
Playa Norte is sheltered and often less affected than Cancún’s beaches, but not completely. During our visit in October 2021, we saw some seaweed.
It’s on the grounds of the Mia Reef hotel. In 2021, we couldn’t reach it on foot; today, access seems possible with a day pass from the hotel, so check with them directly.
Half a day is enough for the north. We stayed 3 days on the island, which let us add the south (Punta Sur, Garrafón) and some snorkeling.
The dry season, from November to April, has the best weather and clearer water. Hurricane season runs from June to November, peaking from August to October.
WHERE TO STAY IN MEXICO 🏨
During our one-month road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽, we stayed in 8 different towns, alternating between Airbnbs and hotels. And we were always very happy with where we stayed 😇.
We deliberately avoided “All Inclusive” packages. It’s not our idea of travel: we’d rather be in the heart of towns and villages, eat local and discover the country at our own pace 🌮.
OUR TIPS FOR CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLACE TO STAY
- 📅 Book ahead in high season: the best places go fast and prices climb.
- 🚗 Private or secure parking if you’re traveling with a rental car. You’ll see, it’s not always available, but depending on the town it can be really worth having.
- ❄️ Air conditioning: essential in Yucatán and Quintana Roo, where it’s hot all year round.
- 🏊 A pool: up to you whether you want one at some of your stays, because it can quickly push the price up.
- 📍 A place close to the center: so you can do everything on foot in the evening. That said, if you like places outside town and you have the car, nothing forces you to stay near the center
- ✅ Free cancellation, to keep your itinerary flexible.
AIRBNB OR HOTEL IN MEXICO?
Both have their advantages. An Airbnb is ideal for more space, a kitchen and living like a local. A hotel is more convenient for one or two nights passing through, with a reception desk and often breakfast included. As for us, we liked both. It all depends on what you want, whether you’re with family, solo or as a couple, and how you like to travel.
HOW MUCH DOES ACCOMMODATION COST IN MEXICO?
There’s something for every taste and every budget. We paid between €40 and €100 a night for two. To be completely transparent with you: €1,800 for 29 nights, or about €62 a night on average (that was in 2021, prices may have changed since).
👇 Here are the 8 places where we slept during our road trip, with our review of each one.
Tested during our road trip
Our 8 places to stay in Mexico
AirbnbHotel
-
AirbnbHolbox
An incredible room, with the pool right next door to cool off. Just perfect!
- Room
- Pool right next door
- Incredible room
- Hotel
Valladolid
A stunning setting and a super spacious room, ideal for catching your breath between two cenotes.
- Very spacious room
- Pool
- On-site massages
- Airbnb
Mérida
A whole house just for us, with a small pool to relax.
- Whole house
- Small pool
- A bit out of the way
- Hotel
Bacalar
A gorgeous place right in the town center, with a superb pool.
- Hotel
- Superb pool
- Town center, far from the lagoon
- Airbnb
Tulum
A whole place with a pool, but very far out: you'll need the car.
- Whole place
- Pool
- Far out, car essential
- Airbnb
Cozumel
A clean, well-located studio, so you can do everything on foot from the town center.
- Studio
- Clean and well designed
- Close to the center
- Hotel
Isla Mujeres
A beautiful seafront hotel with a magnificent pool.
- Hotel
- Magnificent pool
- Seafront, a bit out of the way
- Hotel
Cancún
Right next to the airport: perfect for the first or last night of the trip.
- Hotel
- Close to the airport
- Ideal for the 1st or last night
MY MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GEAR 🧳
It’s a question that comes up a lot when preparing a trip “What should I bring?” That’s why you’ll find below some essential travel accessories to set off on vacation with peace of mind (your documents kept safe) 🛡️ . Planning ahead and getting these items in advance helps you save money and avoid paying for some of them on the spot, where they’ll cost you much more 💸 These are the accessories we took to Mexico and still use for every destination we travel to 👇.
Our road trip checklist
What to pack for Mexico?
Most of these items came with us throughout our 30-day road trip.
0 / 12 in my suitcase · check what you already have
- Essential
ElectronicsUniversal travel adapter
In Mexico, outlets are the American type: French chargers won't fit.
- Essential
ElectronicsPower bank
Long days between ruins and cenotes: your phone lasts until evening.
- Essential
Health & protectionBiodegradable sunscreen
Mineral and biodegradable, kinder to cenotes and reefs.
- Essential
Health & protectionMosquito repellent
Mosquitoes are everywhere, especially in the evening and near the jungle.
- Essential
Cenotes & beachWaterproof phone pouch
To film in cenotes and at the beach without any risk.
- Recommended
Health & protectionFilter water bottle
Tap water isn't drinkable in Mexico: filter it and avoid plastic.
- Recommended
Health & protectionTravel first-aid kit
Band-aids, painkillers, anti-diarrhea meds: enough to handle small issues.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWaterproof bag
Papers and keys kept dry on boats, at the beach or by the cenotes.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWater shoes
For slippery cenote steps and rocky seabeds.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachMicrofiber towel
Light and quick-drying: perfect for swim after swim.
- Bonus
Travel & securityTSA lock
To lock your suitcase on the plane, with no risk of it being broken at security.
- Bonus
Travel & securityAirTag
To track your suitcase if your luggage is delayed or lost.
OUR YOUTUBE VIDEOS IN MEXICO
During our 30-day road trip in Mexico 
, we filmed everything! From Holbox to Cancún, by way of Valladolid, Mérida, Bacalar, Tulum, Cozumel and Isla Mujeres, we take you along with us step by step in our vlogs.
You’ll discover the cenotes we swam in, the Mayan sites we explored, the beaches that made us dream, our places to stay, our favorite spots to eat… and above all our honest take on each place: what amazed us, and what disappointed us a little 
.
If you’re planning your trip, or simply dreaming of getting away, these videos will give you a real glimpse of Mexico, far from the tourist brochures.
Our road trip on video
Our YouTube videos in Mexico
Now watching: Episode 1 · Discovering Mexico & Holbox
21 minEpisode 1Discovering Mexico & Holbox- 17 minEpisode 2Cenotes & Mayan cities
- 9 minEpisode 3Mérida, Uxmal, Cuzamá & the bats
- 13 minEpisode 4Bacalar, a hidden paradise
- 12 minEpisode 5Tulum, Coba, Sian Ka'an & Cenote Azul
- 12 minEpisode 6Cozumel, diving & snorkeling
- 17 minEpisode 7Isla Mujeres, jet skiing & the end of the road trip
21 min
17 min
9 min
13 min
12 min
12 min
17 minTHANKS FOR YOUR FEEDBACK
Thanks for reading this article all the way to the end 🙏! We hope it helps you plan your trip.
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