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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 🇲🇽
In Mexico, there’s an incredible island, Cozumel, known for its marine life 🐟! It’s the perfect place to discover the most beautiful seabeds in the Caribbean: a true paradise for scuba diving and snorkeling, with turquoise water and white-sand beaches 🏖️. About a 35- to 45-minute ferry ride from Playa del Carmen, the island is a dream for many travelers.
In Mayan, Cozumel means “Land of the Swallows.” It’s the largest and most populated island in the Mexican Caribbean, with two vibes: to the west, a calm sea and white sand; to the east, impressive waves and lots of wind 💨. Its reefs are part of the Mesoamerican Reef, the second-largest coral reef in the world, and are protected by the Cozumel Reefs National Marine Park.
Adeline and I stayed on the island in October 2021, during our month-long road trip. After a snorkeling day in Cozumel, we treated ourselves to a discover scuba dive in Cozumel, and it’s one of our best memories of Mexico 😍. We tell you everything, with up-to-date info so you can dive too 👇
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
OUR SCUBA DIVING DAY IN COZUMEL 🤿
GETTING READY FOR OUR FIRST DIVE
We had already dived in France, but we dreamed of diving in the Caribbean 😉. This day was long-awaited: we’d heard a lot about Cozumel’s reefs and their fish. After quite a bit of research, we went with Lusca Diving, with Jeff (Geoffrey) as our instructor.
Approachable, understanding, passionate: that’s what won us over from the first few minutes 🤟. The day before, we had an hour of pool practice to get to know the equipment, train and get lots of tips 😎. It’s a real plus: you save time at sea and feel much calmer. Jeff is hugely reassuring, especially for Adeline, who struggled a bit at first 💪… and then didn’t want to get out of the water!
1ST DIVE: DISCOVERING THE CARIBBEAN
On the big day, we left Cozumel’s port around 9:30 a.m., on the boat “Anita,” with about twenty people on board 🤗. Before diving, Jeff went over a bit more theory and showed us the fish we might come across 🐟.
The boat stops, we gear up and off we go 😍! We gradually descend to between 6 and 12 meters (20 and 40 feet), and you don’t feel that depth at all. It’s even deceptive: you see the layer of water, the light shining through, and you think it’s crazy 🧐. All around us, very dense marine life, colorful fish, including one in rainbow colors 🌈. We came back up after 40 minutes (Adeline had emptied her tank 😂).
Lunch break on the boat, where everything was ready to refuel 🥑: guacamole, rice salad, sandwiches, watermelon…
2ND DIVE: PARADISE EXISTS
After lunch and a bit of sun, the boat heads to a second spot, still along the island’s west coast. Here, the current is stronger and you let yourself be carried along, which is called drift diving 😇. We spotted rays, groupers and fish you’d never see in the Mediterranean. Just before surfacing, we even came across huge, gigantic fish 😱!
We came back up after 45 minutes, even happier than the first time. That’s when you understand why protecting these reefs matters, so our children can see them with their own eyes too, not just in books 💭. Back at the port around 5 p.m., with our heads full of memories. Thanks again to Jeff for this incredible day!
DISCOVER SCUBA OR PADI COURSE IN COZUMEL? 🎓
Discover Scuba Diving is designed to try diving without a certification, supervised by an instructor. A big advantage compared to France: in Mexico, a discover dive can go down to 12 meters (40 feet), compared to 6 meters (20 feet) max in France 😢.
The PADI Open Water course takes 3 to 4 days in Cozumel: theory, pool sessions, then several open-water dives. It then lets you dive anywhere in the world down to 18 meters (60 feet) with a buddy. If you’re staying on the island for several days, it’s the perfect place to get certified, with warm water and exceptional visibility.
SCUBA DIVING OR SNORKELING IN COZUMEL? 🐠
We did both, and they’re two complementary experiences. Snorkeling (mask and snorkel) is accessible to everyone, cheaper, and already lets you see gorgeous reefs: we tell you all about it in our article Snorkeling in Cozumel: El Cielo, Palancar.
Scuba diving goes even further: you’re right in the heart of the reef, surrounded by fish, with a unique feeling of freedom. If you’re unsure, start with snorkeling, then treat yourself to a discover dive: that’s what we did, and we have no regrets 😍.
HOW TO GET TO COZUMEL ⏳
BY FERRY FROM PLAYA DEL CARMEN
There’s no direct passenger ferry from Cancún: everything leaves from Playa del Carmen, about an hour’s drive from Cancún. The crossing takes 35 to 45 minutes, with departures almost every hour. Three companies run the route (Xcaret Xailing, Ultramar, Winjet), for about €15 to €19 one way depending on the class. It’s entirely possible to do a day trip to go diving; many dive shops meet you near the port.
BY CAR ON THE CAR FERRY
We came with our rental car, thanks to the car ferry that leaves from Calica (Punta Venado), south of Playa del Carmen, which you book on Ultramar Carga. Allow about an hour for the crossing. On the island, there are no buses: a car, scooter or taxi are the only ways to get around.
BY TREN MAYA TO PLAYA DEL CARMEN
Since our trip, the Tren Maya serves Playa del Carmen from Cancún, Tulum or Mérida. You then need to take a taxi to the port to catch the ferry.
RENTING A CAR IN MEXICO 🚗
To explore Yucatán and Quintana Roo, we think a rental car is the best option: you’re free to string together cenotes, Mayan sites and beaches at your own pace, without depending on bus schedules or organized tours 🌴.
We did our whole one-month road trip by car, and everything went really well. Here’s the agency we used and recommend, plus an alternative if you’d rather compare 👇
Our rental tip
Renting a car in Mexico
The agency we used, and an alternative to compare.
TouraCancun
Car rental in Mexico
We rented with them for our whole road trip: we recommend them without hesitation!
Our budget€95028 days, insurance included · ~€34/day
- Tested for 1 month
- Pick-up in Cancún
- Our go-to in Mexico
DiscoverCars
Rental comparison site
To compare several rental companies in a single search.
Excellent rating290,000+ Trustpilot reviews
- 1,000+ rental companies compared
- Free cancellation
- 24/7 support
To compare before you choose
Good to know before you rent
- Third-party liability insurance is mandatoryIn Mexico, it's often not included in the price shown online: check before you pay.
- A deposit on a credit cardAn amount is held on your card for the whole rental. Bring a card with a high enough limit.
- Your French driving license is enoughIt's accepted for tourists. The international driving permit is optional: only if you want one.
- Photos and video at pick-upFilm the car from every angle when you collect it, to avoid any dispute when you return it.
- Filling up at the gas stationCheck that the pump meter is at zero before the attendant starts.
- Watch out for “topes”These speed bumps are everywhere, sometimes without a sign: slow down as you enter villages.
For us, the car was essential on this trip: it let us be 100% independent, and do Cozumel, Tulum and the cenotes back to back without depending on anyone 🚗. All our tips are in our article on renting a car in Mexico without getting scammed.
DISCOVER THE MAYAN SITES NEARBY 🦎
Explore the Mayan sites near this spot through nearly 40 articles dedicated to the Yucatán and Quintana Roo 🌍. Discover our tips, itineraries, historical stories, reviews and much more to make the most of your travel experience and dive 100% into discovering Mexico! It’s the perfect time to carefully plan your vacation ✈️.
DISCOVER THE CENOTES NEARBY 🧐
It’s time to explore the cenotes near this spot on my travel blog about Mexico to make the most of your stay 🌟! You’ll find details about the history of these cenotes, our honest review, and captivating photos of your future discoveries 🌍. These articles will be essential resources to plan your trip to Mexico! 🗺️📸
SCUBA DIVING PRICES IN COZUMEL 💸
- 🤿 Our experience: in 2021, we paid €125 per person for our discover dive with 2 dives. Everything was included: the pool session the day before, the boat, the equipment, lunch on board and the marine park fee.
- 📈 Today: prices have gone up since our trip. For a 2-dive trip, expect a good hundred euros or more, depending on the dive shop and what’s included. Always ask for the details before booking.
- 🎟️ The marine park wristband: every trip into the park requires an entry fee of about 218 pesos (€11) per person per day, sometimes included, sometimes paid in cash.
- 🇫🇷 Compared with France: back home, expect about €80 to €90 for a twenty-minute discover dive. In Cozumel, we got our money’s worth 😉.
⚠️ Heads up: to let the corals regenerate, some reefs in the park close temporarily, on a rotating basis (three zones were still closed in February 2026). Your dive shop adapts the spots, but check ahead if you’re dreaming of a particular site. For cash, read our article Where to withdraw money in Mexico.
THINGS TO KNOW 🥰
As always in our articles, here are our tips for scuba diving in Cozumel:
- 🤝 Clicking with your instructor is key: take the time to choose your dive shop.
- 🏊 A pool session before your discover dive is a real plus, especially if you’re a bit nervous.
- 🧴 No regular sunscreen: it damages the corals. Go for a UV shirt or a “reef safe” sunscreen.
- 🌊 All the dives are on the west coast, sheltered from the wind.
- 🌡️ The water is warm all year, it’s so comfortable.
- 🎟️ Check whether the marine park wristband is included in the price.
- 💵 Remember to tip the captain and crew at the end of the day 😉.
- ⛴️ You can easily come from Playa del Carmen for the day.
- 📸 A GoPro lets you keep these moments forever.
OUR REVIEW OF SCUBA DIVING IN COZUMEL 💭
INCREDIBLE 😍! Thanks again to Jeff for a day that will stay etched in our memories. We enjoyed it from start to finish. We had already dived in France, but here, the seabed was gorgeous, and letting the current carry you is even better 😇. Thinking about nothing, just watching, and telling yourself how incredibly lucky you are to experience this.
Diving is still an activity that scares a lot of people a little, but once you take the plunge, it’s pure pleasure. If you’re in Cozumel or on the Riviera Maya, plan a day of scuba diving in Cozumel 🏝️. And if you’re still unsure, read this article again 📝!
👉 What about you? Have you already tried a discover dive, or will Cozumel be your first time?
FAQ: YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT SCUBA DIVING IN COZUMEL ❓
Here are the questions we’re asked most often about scuba diving in Cozumel. Have another one? Ask it in the comments 😉.
In 2021, we paid €125 per person for a discover dive with 2 dives, all included. Prices have gone up since: expect a good hundred euros or more for 2 dives, depending on the dive shop and what’s included.
Yes, with a discover dive supervised by an instructor. In Mexico, it can go down to 12 meters (40 feet), compared to 6 meters (20 feet) in France. A pool session is often scheduled beforehand.
About 218 pesos (€11) per person per day. It’s sometimes included in the trip price, sometimes paid in cash on site.
Yes, the PADI Open Water course takes 3 to 4 days. Cozumel is one of the best places to learn, with warm water and very good visibility.
You can dive all year, the water stays warm. We were there in October and conditions were very good. Keep an eye on the weather during hurricane season, from June to November.
Yes, the ferry only takes 35 to 45 minutes, and many dive shops meet you near Cozumel’s port. It’s doable as a day trip.
We saw rays, groupers, huge fish and loads of colorful fish. Depending on the spot and the season, you can also come across turtles.
Snorkeling is accessible to everyone and cheaper, while diving offers total immersion. We did both and recommend combining them if you have time.
Avoid regular sunscreens, which damage the corals. Go for a UV shirt or a “reef safe” sunscreen.
Yes, the marine park temporarily closes some reefs on a rotating basis to let them regenerate. Your dive shop picks the spots that are open on the day of your trip.
WHERE TO STAY IN MEXICO 🏨
During our one-month road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽, we stayed in 8 different towns, alternating between Airbnbs and hotels. And we were always very happy with where we stayed 😇.
We deliberately avoided “All Inclusive” packages. It’s not our idea of travel: we’d rather be in the heart of towns and villages, eat local and discover the country at our own pace 🌮.
OUR TIPS FOR CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLACE TO STAY
- 📅 Book ahead in high season: the best places go fast and prices climb.
- 🚗 Private or secure parking if you’re traveling with a rental car. You’ll see, it’s not always available, but depending on the town it can be really worth having.
- ❄️ Air conditioning: essential in Yucatán and Quintana Roo, where it’s hot all year round.
- 🏊 A pool: up to you whether you want one at some of your stays, because it can quickly push the price up.
- 📍 A place close to the center: so you can do everything on foot in the evening. That said, if you like places outside town and you have the car, nothing forces you to stay near the center
- ✅ Free cancellation, to keep your itinerary flexible.
AIRBNB OR HOTEL IN MEXICO?
Both have their advantages. An Airbnb is ideal for more space, a kitchen and living like a local. A hotel is more convenient for one or two nights passing through, with a reception desk and often breakfast included. As for us, we liked both. It all depends on what you want, whether you’re with family, solo or as a couple, and how you like to travel.
HOW MUCH DOES ACCOMMODATION COST IN MEXICO?
There’s something for every taste and every budget. We paid between €40 and €100 a night for two. To be completely transparent with you: €1,800 for 29 nights, or about €62 a night on average (that was in 2021, prices may have changed since).
👇 Here are the 8 places where we slept during our road trip, with our review of each one.
Tested during our road trip
Our 8 places to stay in Mexico
AirbnbHotel
-
AirbnbHolbox
An incredible room, with the pool right next door to cool off. Just perfect!
- Room
- Pool right next door
- Incredible room
- Hotel
Valladolid
A stunning setting and a super spacious room, ideal for catching your breath between two cenotes.
- Very spacious room
- Pool
- On-site massages
- Airbnb
Mérida
A whole house just for us, with a small pool to relax.
- Whole house
- Small pool
- A bit out of the way
- Hotel
Bacalar
A gorgeous place right in the town center, with a superb pool.
- Hotel
- Superb pool
- Town center, far from the lagoon
- Airbnb
Tulum
A whole place with a pool, but very far out: you'll need the car.
- Whole place
- Pool
- Far out, car essential
- Airbnb
Cozumel
A clean, well-located studio, so you can do everything on foot from the town center.
- Studio
- Clean and well designed
- Close to the center
- Hotel
Isla Mujeres
A beautiful seafront hotel with a magnificent pool.
- Hotel
- Magnificent pool
- Seafront, a bit out of the way
- Hotel
Cancún
Right next to the airport: perfect for the first or last night of the trip.
- Hotel
- Close to the airport
- Ideal for the 1st or last night
MY MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GEAR 🧳
It’s a question that comes up a lot when preparing a trip “What should I bring?” That’s why you’ll find below some essential travel accessories to set off on vacation with peace of mind (your documents kept safe) 🛡️ . Planning ahead and getting these items in advance helps you save money and avoid paying for some of them on the spot, where they’ll cost you much more 💸 These are the accessories we took to Mexico and still use for every destination we travel to 👇.
Our road trip checklist
What to pack for Mexico?
Most of these items came with us throughout our 30-day road trip.
0 / 12 in my suitcase · check what you already have
- Essential
ElectronicsUniversal travel adapter
In Mexico, outlets are the American type: French chargers won't fit.
- Essential
ElectronicsPower bank
Long days between ruins and cenotes: your phone lasts until evening.
- Essential
Health & protectionBiodegradable sunscreen
Mineral and biodegradable, kinder to cenotes and reefs.
- Essential
Health & protectionMosquito repellent
Mosquitoes are everywhere, especially in the evening and near the jungle.
- Essential
Cenotes & beachWaterproof phone pouch
To film in cenotes and at the beach without any risk.
- Recommended
Health & protectionFilter water bottle
Tap water isn't drinkable in Mexico: filter it and avoid plastic.
- Recommended
Health & protectionTravel first-aid kit
Band-aids, painkillers, anti-diarrhea meds: enough to handle small issues.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWaterproof bag
Papers and keys kept dry on boats, at the beach or by the cenotes.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWater shoes
For slippery cenote steps and rocky seabeds.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachMicrofiber towel
Light and quick-drying: perfect for swim after swim.
- Bonus
Travel & securityTSA lock
To lock your suitcase on the plane, with no risk of it being broken at security.
- Bonus
Travel & securityAirTag
To track your suitcase if your luggage is delayed or lost.
OUR YOUTUBE VIDEOS IN MEXICO 
During our 30-day road trip in Mexico 
, we filmed everything! From Holbox to Cancún, by way of Valladolid, Mérida, Bacalar, Tulum, Cozumel and Isla Mujeres, we take you along with us step by step in our vlogs.
You’ll discover the cenotes we swam in, the Mayan sites we explored, the beaches that made us dream, our places to stay, our favorite spots to eat… and above all our honest take on each place: what amazed us, and what disappointed us a little 
.
If you’re planning your trip, or simply dreaming of getting away, these videos will give you a real glimpse of Mexico, far from the tourist brochures.
Our road trip on video
Our YouTube videos in Mexico
Now watching: Episode 1 · Discovering Mexico & Holbox
21 minEpisode 1Discovering Mexico & Holbox- 17 minEpisode 2Cenotes & Mayan cities
- 9 minEpisode 3Mérida, Uxmal, Cuzamá & the bats
- 13 minEpisode 4Bacalar, a hidden paradise
- 12 minEpisode 5Tulum, Coba, Sian Ka'an & Cenote Azul
- 12 minEpisode 6Cozumel, diving & snorkeling
- 17 minEpisode 7Isla Mujeres, jet skiing & the end of the road trip
21 min
17 min
9 min
13 min
12 min
12 min
17 minTHANKS FOR YOUR FEEDBACK
Thanks for reading this article all the way to the end 🙏! We hope it helps you plan your trip.
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