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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 🇲🇽
Holbox is an island in the north of the Yucatán Peninsula, between the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, known for its white-sand beaches ⛱️ and waters that stay shallow for dozens of meters 😁. People also come to swim with whale sharks, in season 🥰. We tell you all about the island in our complete Holbox guide. Other islands in the region are also worth visiting, like Isla Mujeres or Cozumel.
Holbox is also a biodiversity sanctuary, with lots of birds, iguanas, turtles and even pink flamingos 🦩. One of the most popular excursions is the 3 islands tour. Spoiler: we did it in October 2021… and were disappointed. We’ll explain why, in all honesty.
👉 Planning your trip? Also read our 10 things to know before visiting Mexico.
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
THE HOLBOX 3 ISLANDS TOUR: OUR EXPERIENCE 🚤
We took a shared boat, like most travelers. Depending on the operator, the weather and the season, the route can vary (Isla Pasión is sometimes replaced by Punta Mosquito or a sandbar).
ISLA PÁJAROS: BIRDWATCHING
After a few dozen minutes by boat, we arrived at Isla Pájaros, a place known for birdwatching, with more than a hundred species 🐦. You don’t land on the island, which is a protected nesting site: you watch from a pier and observation towers. The day we visited, there was nothing at all 😑. Flamingos are mostly around from April to October: in October, it was the end of the season, which may explain it. The pier and the big tower take a lot away from the place, and since the excursion is very touristy, you quickly end up crammed in with lots of boats 😒.
ISLA PASIÓN
Back on the boat for a stop at Isla Pasión, “Passion Island.” Our guide told us that, decades ago, couples came here to get married 👰, and that the island became a party spot with restaurants and nightclubs, before being devastated by Hurricane Wilma in 2005 😔. We couldn’t verify this story, so take it with a grain of salt! The stop is quick and, honestly, not amazing 😨. The water is shallow, which at least lets you enjoy the view.
OJO DE AGUA: THE YALAHAU CENOTE
Last stop before heading back: the Yalahau cenote (or Ojo de Agua), a freshwater spring surrounded by vegetation, on the mainland shore of the lagoon 😊. We even saw a crocodile 🐊 on the way back to the boat! A lookout tower offers a nice view 👀. A life jacket is mandatory for swimming, and the entry fee, about 200 pesos (€10), isn’t always included in the tour. It’s the best of the three stops in our opinion… even if it wasn’t amazing either.
PRICE AND LENGTH OF THE 3 ISLANDS TOUR ⏱️
- 💰 Shared boat: about €34 to €45 per person, depending on whether the cenote entry is included.
- 🛥️ Private boat: about €225 to €320 per boat.
- ⏱️ Length: about 2.5 to 3.5 hours, with departures around 9 a.m., 10 a.m. or 2 p.m. Morning is recommended, with fewer boats.
These prices change often: check when you book. Bring cash for the cenote: read our article Where to withdraw money in Mexico.
WHEN TO DO THE TOUR TO SEE FLAMINGOS?
Mostly from April to October, peaking in summer, but nothing is guaranteed. In October, at the end of the season, we didn’t see a single one.
OUR ALTERNATIVES TO THE 3 ISLANDS TOUR 🌅
- 🌅 Sunset on the beach: our best memory of Holbox, standing in warm water that stretches for dozens of meters.
- 🏝️ Punta Mosquito: a huge sandbar on the east side of the island. We couldn’t make it (it’s quite far on foot), but apparently it’s worth it.
- 🛶 Kayaking in the mangroves.
- ✨ Bioluminescence, on some nights, mostly in summer.
- 🦈 Whale sharks, from about June to mid-September.
And if you love boat trips, our sailboat tour on the Bacalar lagoon made a much bigger impression on us.
HOW TO GET TO HOLBOX ⏳
- By car 🚗: cars aren’t allowed on the island. You have to leave yours in a parking lot in Chiquilá (we paid 100 pesos for the day; today expect about 100 to 150 pesos, or €5 to €7), then take the ferry. In 2021, we paid 440 pesos round trip per person; today expect about 300 to 330 pesos each way (€14 to €16). Feel free to check out my article on renting a car in Mexico.
- By bus 🚌: there are no buses on the island, but ADO buses connect Cancún to Chiquilá.
- On the island 🛺: no regular taxis, but golf carts, which can be expensive 💰.
All the details (ferry, parking, things to do) are in our Holbox guide.
RENTING A CAR IN MEXICO 🚗
To explore Yucatán and Quintana Roo, we think a rental car is the best option: you’re free to string together cenotes, Mayan sites and beaches at your own pace, without depending on bus schedules or organized tours 🌴.
We did our whole one-month road trip by car, and everything went really well. Here’s the agency we used and recommend, plus an alternative if you’d rather compare 👇
Our rental tip
Renting a car in Mexico
The agency we used, and an alternative to compare.
TouraCancun
Car rental in Mexico
We rented with them for our whole road trip: we recommend them without hesitation!
Our budget€95028 days, insurance included · ~€34/day
- Tested for 1 month
- Pick-up in Cancún
- Our go-to in Mexico
DiscoverCars
Rental comparison site
To compare several rental companies in a single search.
Excellent rating290,000+ Trustpilot reviews
- 1,000+ rental companies compared
- Free cancellation
- 24/7 support
To compare before you choose
Good to know before you rent
- Third-party liability insurance is mandatoryIn Mexico, it's often not included in the price shown online: check before you pay.
- A deposit on a credit cardAn amount is held on your card for the whole rental. Bring a card with a high enough limit.
- Your French driving license is enoughIt's accepted for tourists. The international driving permit is optional: only if you want one.
- Photos and video at pick-upFilm the car from every angle when you collect it, to avoid any dispute when you return it.
- Filling up at the gas stationCheck that the pump meter is at zero before the attendant starts.
- Watch out for “topes”These speed bumps are everywhere, sometimes without a sign: slow down as you enter villages.
TOURS TO DISCOVER HOLBOX 
It depends on you and what you’re looking for: there are lots of tours in Holbox for every budget 💰. The advantage in Holbox, as at many tourist spots like Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam, Uxmal, Cenote Ik Kil… is that you’ll find everything you need and can choose the tour that suits you.
If you don’t plan ahead, there are still plenty of agencies on the island. If you’re someone who plans ahead (like me), you can easily book in advance online: you’ll find lots of tours on GetYourGuide
OUR TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL TOUR 🥰
If you still want to try the Holbox 3 islands tour, here are our tips:
- Go in the morning, when there are fewer boats.
- Come during flamingo season (April to October), with no guarantee.
- Bring binoculars for Isla Pájaros.
- Bring cash for the cenote entry.
- Mineral or “reef-safe” sunscreen only: regular sunscreens are banned at the cenote.
- Pay in pesos rather than dollars: you’ll lose out on the exchange rate.
- Holbox’s streets are often flooded: bring suitable shoes.
- The island is very touristy, so everything costs more.
WHY WE WERE DISAPPOINTED 💭
Holbox is a nice island to kick back and enjoy the beach, but the town isn’t very pretty and the streets are often flooded: for us, the island was a bit of a letdown, because we expected more.
As for the 3 islands tour, it was really disappointing: lots of boats, no birds at Isla Pájaros, short stops without much interest. Compared to everything we saw during the rest of our road trip, there’s much better! We don’t recommend this tour: enjoy the sunset instead, or try Punta Mosquito. Of course, this is our personal opinion: if you give it a go, tell us in the comments what you thought.
👉 This tour was part of our month-long road trip in Mexico. Itinerary, real budget, accommodation, cenotes and Mayan sites: we’ve gathered it all on our Mexico travel blog.
👉 What about you? What do you think of the Holbox 3 islands tour?
FAQ: THE HOLBOX 3 ISLANDS TOUR ❓
These are the questions people often ask before doing the 3 islands tour. Feel free to ask yours in the comments, I’ll add to this FAQ 💬.
Expect about €34 to €45 per person on a shared boat, depending on whether the cenote entry is included, and about €225 to €320 per boat for a private one. These prices change often.
Half a day, about 2.5 to 3.5 hours on the water. Each stop is fairly short, about fifteen minutes at Isla Pájaros for example.
Usually: Isla Pájaros, Ojo de Agua (Yalahau cenote) and Isla Pasión. Depending on the weather and the operator, Isla Pasión is sometimes replaced by Punta Mosquito or a sandbar.
No, it’s a protected nesting area: you watch from a pier and towers. Bring binoculars.
Mostly from April to October, peaking in summer, but nothing is guaranteed. When we visited in October, we saw nothing at all.
Not always. Expect about 200 pesos (€10) per person, often paid in cash on site. The price may change.
For us, honestly no: lots of boats, no birds and short stops. It may appeal to you if you go early, in flamingo season, possibly on a private boat.
It’s not essential: many agencies sell the tour on the island. Booking ahead mainly lets you choose an early departure or a private boat in high season.
Mineral sunscreen, cash, water shoes, a towel, a dry bag, and mosquito repellent in summer.
Sunset on the beach (our best memory), Punta Mosquito, kayaking in the mangroves, bioluminescence, or whale sharks in season.
WHERE TO STAY IN MEXICO 🏨
During our one-month road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽, we stayed in 8 different towns, alternating between Airbnbs and hotels. And we were always very happy with where we stayed 😇.
We deliberately avoided “All Inclusive” packages. It’s not our idea of travel: we’d rather be in the heart of towns and villages, eat local and discover the country at our own pace 🌮.
OUR TIPS FOR CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLACE TO STAY
- 📅 Book ahead in high season: the best places go fast and prices climb.
- 🚗 Private or secure parking if you’re traveling with a rental car. You’ll see, it’s not always available, but depending on the town it can be really worth having.
- ❄️ Air conditioning: essential in Yucatán and Quintana Roo, where it’s hot all year round.
- 🏊 A pool: up to you whether you want one at some of your stays, because it can quickly push the price up.
- 📍 A place close to the center: so you can do everything on foot in the evening. That said, if you like places outside town and you have the car, nothing forces you to stay near the center
- ✅ Free cancellation, to keep your itinerary flexible.
AIRBNB OR HOTEL IN MEXICO?
Both have their advantages. An Airbnb is ideal for more space, a kitchen and living like a local. A hotel is more convenient for one or two nights passing through, with a reception desk and often breakfast included. As for us, we liked both. It all depends on what you want, whether you’re with family, solo or as a couple, and how you like to travel.
HOW MUCH DOES ACCOMMODATION COST IN MEXICO?
There’s something for every taste and every budget. We paid between €40 and €100 a night for two. To be completely transparent with you: €1,800 for 29 nights, or about €62 a night on average (that was in 2021, prices may have changed since).
👇 Here are the 8 places where we slept during our road trip, with our review of each one.
Tested during our road trip
Our 8 places to stay in Mexico
AirbnbHotel
-
AirbnbHolbox
An incredible room, with the pool right next door to cool off. Just perfect!
- Room
- Pool right next door
- Incredible room
- Hotel
Valladolid
A stunning setting and a super spacious room, ideal for catching your breath between two cenotes.
- Very spacious room
- Pool
- On-site massages
- Airbnb
Mérida
A whole house just for us, with a small pool to relax.
- Whole house
- Small pool
- A bit out of the way
- Hotel
Bacalar
A gorgeous place right in the town center, with a superb pool.
- Hotel
- Superb pool
- Town center, far from the lagoon
- Airbnb
Tulum
A whole place with a pool, but very far out: you'll need the car.
- Whole place
- Pool
- Far out, car essential
- Airbnb
Cozumel
A clean, well-located studio, so you can do everything on foot from the town center.
- Studio
- Clean and well designed
- Close to the center
- Hotel
Isla Mujeres
A beautiful seafront hotel with a magnificent pool.
- Hotel
- Magnificent pool
- Seafront, a bit out of the way
- Hotel
Cancún
Right next to the airport: perfect for the first or last night of the trip.
- Hotel
- Close to the airport
- Ideal for the 1st or last night
MY MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GEAR 🧳
It’s a question that comes up a lot when preparing a trip “What should I bring?” That’s why you’ll find below some essential travel accessories to set off on vacation with peace of mind (your documents kept safe) 🛡️ . Planning ahead and getting these items in advance helps you save money and avoid paying for some of them on the spot, where they’ll cost you much more 💸 These are the accessories we took to Mexico and still use for every destination we travel to 👇.
Our road trip checklist
What to pack for Mexico?
Most of these items came with us throughout our 30-day road trip.
0 / 12 in my suitcase · check what you already have
- Essential
ElectronicsUniversal travel adapter
In Mexico, outlets are the American type: French chargers won't fit.
- Essential
ElectronicsPower bank
Long days between ruins and cenotes: your phone lasts until evening.
- Essential
Health & protectionBiodegradable sunscreen
Mineral and biodegradable, kinder to cenotes and reefs.
- Essential
Health & protectionMosquito repellent
Mosquitoes are everywhere, especially in the evening and near the jungle.
- Essential
Cenotes & beachWaterproof phone pouch
To film in cenotes and at the beach without any risk.
- Recommended
Health & protectionFilter water bottle
Tap water isn't drinkable in Mexico: filter it and avoid plastic.
- Recommended
Health & protectionTravel first-aid kit
Band-aids, painkillers, anti-diarrhea meds: enough to handle small issues.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWaterproof bag
Papers and keys kept dry on boats, at the beach or by the cenotes.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWater shoes
For slippery cenote steps and rocky seabeds.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachMicrofiber towel
Light and quick-drying: perfect for swim after swim.
- Bonus
Travel & securityTSA lock
To lock your suitcase on the plane, with no risk of it being broken at security.
- Bonus
Travel & securityAirTag
To track your suitcase if your luggage is delayed or lost.
OUR YOUTUBE VIDEOS IN MEXICO
During our 30-day road trip in Mexico 
, we filmed everything! From Holbox to Cancún, by way of Valladolid, Mérida, Bacalar, Tulum, Cozumel and Isla Mujeres, we take you along with us step by step in our vlogs.
You’ll discover the cenotes we swam in, the Mayan sites we explored, the beaches that made us dream, our places to stay, our favorite spots to eat… and above all our honest take on each place: what amazed us, and what disappointed us a little 
.
If you’re planning your trip, or simply dreaming of getting away, these videos will give you a real glimpse of Mexico, far from the tourist brochures.
Our road trip on video
Our YouTube videos in Mexico
Now watching: Episode 1 · Discovering Mexico & Holbox
21 minEpisode 1Discovering Mexico & Holbox- 17 minEpisode 2Cenotes & Mayan cities
- 9 minEpisode 3Mérida, Uxmal, Cuzamá & the bats
- 13 minEpisode 4Bacalar, a hidden paradise
- 12 minEpisode 5Tulum, Coba, Sian Ka'an & Cenote Azul
- 12 minEpisode 6Cozumel, diving & snorkeling
- 17 minEpisode 7Isla Mujeres, jet skiing & the end of the road trip
21 min
17 min
9 min
13 min
12 min
12 min
17 minTHANKS FOR YOUR FEEDBACK
Thanks for reading this article all the way to the end 🙏! We hope it helps you plan your trip.
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