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CONTENTS
THE HISTORY OF CENOTE CALAVERA 🇲🇽
Swimming in Cenote Calavera 💧 is an almost mystical experience. The Maya believed cenotes were passages to the afterlife. The word “cenote” comes from the Mayan dz’onot, meaning “sacred well.”
Cenotes are natural sinkholes, formed when the roof of a water-filled cave collapsed. There are an estimated 10,000 on the Yucatán Peninsula 🇲🇽! For the Maya, they were the main source of fresh water, and a place for offerings: precious objects, and sometimes even human sacrifices…
In Spanish, “calavera” means “skull”. Seen from below, its three openings form a skull 💀, hence its other nickname, the “Temple of Doom”. The cenote is about 3 km from downtown Tulum, on the road to Cobá, which makes it very busy. Adeline and I visited it in October 2021, from where we were staying in Tulum.
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
CENOTE CALAVERA AND ITS DARK ATMOSPHERE 💀
OUR SWIM IN THE SKULL
Cenote Calavera is one of the most Instagrammable cenotes around Tulum 📸. The sinkhole is small, but the view from below, with the skull shape, is striking. There’s even a swing over the water for photos. Access is easy: a few meters’ walk, and you’re in front of this water skull!
We arrived around 9 a.m.: there were ten or fifteen of us at most, still a post-Covid effect. The cenote then filled up little by little, and by the time we left, there must have been 30 to 40 people. We stayed 2 to 3 hours, in water that was neither warm nor cold, just right 😊.
JUMPING THROUGH THE HOLE
Cenote Calavera’s big highlight is the jumps 😛. You jump straight through the “skull” holes into the water. I jumped through one of the small holes, about 5 to 6 meters high, and it was incredible! Always make sure no one is swimming below before you jump.
In the dome, a few openings let the light in so you can admire the fish 🐟. We also saw bats 🦇: it’s important not to shout and to let them be. All around, you can leave your things on the rocks. The cenote is also a cave diving site, with galleries reserved for guided divers.
CALAVERA OR ANOTHER CENOTE NEAR TULUM? 🤔
Calavera is a very beautiful cenote, but it’s not the most beautiful one we’ve done. Around Tulum, you also have:
- 💙 Cenote Azul, an open cenote ideal for families, between Tulum and Playa del Carmen.
- 🌿 Cenote Choo-Ha, a magnificent cave near the Cobá ruins.
- 🏛️ The Tulum ruins, to combine with Calavera on the same day, or with the Mayan site of Muyil and the Sian Ka’an reserve, farther south.
And if you’re passing through Valladolid, the Suytun, Oxman or X’Canché cenotes are often more impressive, and cheaper.
HOW TO GET TO CENOTE CALAVERA ⏳
BY CAR
The cenote is about 5 minutes from downtown Tulum, on the road to Cobá. Allow about 1 hour from Playa del Carmen, 2 hours from Cancún and 1.5 hours from Valladolid. The parking lot is right at the entrance. We were staying in an Airbnb in Tulum, a bit outside the center, but with the car, it’s all very easy.
BY BIKE, COLECTIVO OR TAXI
From downtown Tulum, you can go by bike (about fifteen minutes) or by taxi, agreeing on the price before you get in. Colectivos heading to Cobá can also drop you off at the entrance.
BY TREN MAYA
Since our trip, the Tren Maya has served Tulum from Cancún, Playa del Carmen or Bacalar. The station is outside town, so you’ll need a taxi from there.
RENTING A CAR IN MEXICO 🚗
To explore Yucatán and Quintana Roo, we think a rental car is the best option: you’re free to string together cenotes, Mayan sites and beaches at your own pace, without depending on bus schedules or organized tours 🌴.
We did our whole one-month road trip by car, and everything went really well. Here’s the agency we used and recommend, plus an alternative if you’d rather compare 👇
Our rental tip
Renting a car in Mexico
The agency we used, and an alternative to compare.
TouraCancun
Car rental in Mexico
We rented with them for our whole road trip: we recommend them without hesitation!
Our budget€95028 days, insurance included · ~€34/day
- Tested for 1 month
- Pick-up in Cancún
- Our go-to in Mexico
DiscoverCars
Rental comparison site
To compare several rental companies in a single search.
Excellent rating290,000+ Trustpilot reviews
- 1,000+ rental companies compared
- Free cancellation
- 24/7 support
To compare before you choose
Good to know before you rent
- Third-party liability insurance is mandatoryIn Mexico, it's often not included in the price shown online: check before you pay.
- A deposit on a credit cardAn amount is held on your card for the whole rental. Bring a card with a high enough limit.
- Your French driving license is enoughIt's accepted for tourists. The international driving permit is optional: only if you want one.
- Photos and video at pick-upFilm the car from every angle when you collect it, to avoid any dispute when you return it.
- Filling up at the gas stationCheck that the pump meter is at zero before the attendant starts.
- Watch out for “topes”These speed bumps are everywhere, sometimes without a sign: slow down as you enter villages.
DISCOVER THE NEARBY MAYAN SITES 🦎
Explore the Mayan sites near here through nearly 40 articles about the Yucatán and Quintana Roo 🌍. Discover our best tips, itineraries, history, reviews and much more to make the most of your travel experience and dive 100% into discovering Mexico! It’s the perfect time to carefully plan your vacation ✈️.
DISCOVER THE NEARBY CENOTES 🧐
Now’s the time to explore the cenotes near here on my Mexico travel blog to make the most of your stay 🌟! You’ll find details on the history of these cenotes, our honest review, and captivating photos of your future discoveries 🌍. These articles will be essential resources for planning your trip to Mexico! 🗺️📸
CENOTE CALAVERA PRICES AND HOURS ⏰
- 🕰️ Hours: every day, roughly 8 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. Check on site, as they can change with the season.
- 💸 Our experience: in 2021, we paid 250 pesos per person (€13). The price is still around 250 pesos (about €13) according to recent sources, and it tends to go up: check before you go.
- 🎥 Camera: an extra fee is often charged for filming with a GoPro or a camera.
- 🦺 Life jacket: not included in the price, and not mandatory.
- 🅿️ Parking: free when we visited.
- 💵 Payment: bring pesos in cash. We explain everything in Where to withdraw money in Mexico.
To be honest, it’s one of the most expensive cenotes we’ve done 💰, not counting the extras, as with many very touristy places around Tulum 😑.
THINGS TO KNOW 🥰
As always, here are our tips for visiting Cenote Calavera:
- ⏰ Arrive at opening: there were about fifteen of us at 9 a.m., and 30 to 40 people two hours later.
- 🚌 Tour operators stop at this very touristy cenote, often from 10:30-11 a.m.
- 🤸 The 2- to 6-meter jumps are the big highlight: always check that no one is below.
- 🚿 Showering before you swim is mandatory.
- 🧴 No sunscreen or bug spray, to protect the cenote’s water.
- 🦇 Respect the bats: no shouting.
- 🍽️ No food on site, but there are restrooms 🚾.
- 🦺 Life jacket not mandatory (if you’re like me, swimming is so much better without one).
- 💻 No need to book online.
OUR TAKE ON CENOTE CALAVERA 💭
It’s a beautiful cenote, very Instagrammable, and the jump through the skull hole is still a great memory 💀. We were lucky to be there with few people, and we really made the most of it. The atmosphere is peaceful when it’s not crowded.
On the other hand, it’s not really worth the price 😡. We’ve done much more beautiful cenotes for less, like X’Canché, Oxman, Suytun or the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá. If you’re staying in Tulum, it’s still worth the detour, if only to see the skull from the water. But it’s not the one we’d put first.
👉 What about you? Would you jump through the skull hole, or would you rather keep your feet in the water?
FAQ: YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT CENOTE CALAVERA ❓
Here are the questions we get asked most often about Cenote Calavera. Got another one? Ask it in the comments 😉.
In 2021, we paid 250 pesos (€13) per person. The price is still around 250 pesos (about €13) according to recent sources, with possible extra fees for filming.
It’s open every day, roughly 8 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. Arrive at opening to avoid the groups.
About 3 km from downtown Tulum, on the road to Cobá. It’s a 5-minute drive, or a bike ride from the center.
Yes, it’s actually its highlight: you jump through the “skull” holes, from about 2 to 6 meters. Always check that no one is below.
No, it’s neither mandatory nor included in the price. If you’re not comfortable in the water, rent one on site.
Yes, it’s a cave diving site, reserved for divers guided by a dive shop. Swimmers stay in the open part.
We stayed 2 to 3 hours, between swimming, jumping and photos. An hour is enough if you’re in a hurry.
Yes for its atmosphere and its jumps, but it’s expensive for its size. If you only have time for one cenote, others around Valladolid are more impressive.
Cenote Azul, for families, and Cenote Choo-Ha, near Cobá. You can also combine Calavera with the Tulum ruins on the same day.
WHERE TO STAY IN MEXICO 🏨
During our one-month road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽, we stayed in 8 different towns, alternating between Airbnbs and hotels. And we were always very happy with where we stayed 😇.
We deliberately avoided “All Inclusive” packages. It’s not our idea of travel: we’d rather be in the heart of towns and villages, eat local and discover the country at our own pace 🌮.
OUR TIPS FOR CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLACE TO STAY
- 📅 Book ahead in high season: the best places go fast and prices climb.
- 🚗 Private or secure parking if you’re traveling with a rental car. You’ll see, it’s not always available, but depending on the town it can be really worth having.
- ❄️ Air conditioning: essential in Yucatán and Quintana Roo, where it’s hot all year round.
- 🏊 A pool: up to you whether you want one at some of your stays, because it can quickly push the price up.
- 📍 A place close to the center: so you can do everything on foot in the evening. That said, if you like places outside town and you have the car, nothing forces you to stay near the center
- ✅ Free cancellation, to keep your itinerary flexible.
AIRBNB OR HOTEL IN MEXICO?
Both have their advantages. An Airbnb is ideal for more space, a kitchen and living like a local. A hotel is more convenient for one or two nights passing through, with a reception desk and often breakfast included. As for us, we liked both. It all depends on what you want, whether you’re with family, solo or as a couple, and how you like to travel.
HOW MUCH DOES ACCOMMODATION COST IN MEXICO?
There’s something for every taste and every budget. We paid between €40 and €100 a night for two. To be completely transparent with you: €1,800 for 29 nights, or about €62 a night on average (that was in 2021, prices may have changed since).
👇 Here are the 8 places where we slept during our road trip, with our review of each one.
Tested during our road trip
Our 8 places to stay in Mexico
AirbnbHotel
-
AirbnbHolbox
An incredible room, with the pool right next door to cool off. Just perfect!
- Room
- Pool right next door
- Incredible room
- Hotel
Valladolid
A stunning setting and a super spacious room, ideal for catching your breath between two cenotes.
- Very spacious room
- Pool
- On-site massages
- Airbnb
Mérida
A whole house just for us, with a small pool to relax.
- Whole house
- Small pool
- A bit out of the way
- Hotel
Bacalar
A gorgeous place right in the town center, with a superb pool.
- Hotel
- Superb pool
- Town center, far from the lagoon
- Airbnb
Tulum
A whole place with a pool, but very far out: you'll need the car.
- Whole place
- Pool
- Far out, car essential
- Airbnb
Cozumel
A clean, well-located studio, so you can do everything on foot from the town center.
- Studio
- Clean and well designed
- Close to the center
- Hotel
Isla Mujeres
A beautiful seafront hotel with a magnificent pool.
- Hotel
- Magnificent pool
- Seafront, a bit out of the way
- Hotel
Cancún
Right next to the airport: perfect for the first or last night of the trip.
- Hotel
- Close to the airport
- Ideal for the 1st or last night
MY MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GEAR 🧳
It’s a question that comes up a lot when preparing a trip “What should I bring?” That’s why you’ll find below some essential travel accessories to set off on vacation with peace of mind (your documents kept safe) 🛡️ . Planning ahead and getting these items in advance helps you save money and avoid paying for some of them on the spot, where they’ll cost you much more 💸 These are the accessories we took to Mexico and still use for every destination we travel to 👇.
Our road trip checklist
What to pack for Mexico?
Most of these items came with us throughout our 30-day road trip.
0 / 12 in my suitcase · check what you already have
- Essential
ElectronicsUniversal travel adapter
In Mexico, outlets are the American type: French chargers won't fit.
- Essential
ElectronicsPower bank
Long days between ruins and cenotes: your phone lasts until evening.
- Essential
Health & protectionBiodegradable sunscreen
Mineral and biodegradable, kinder to cenotes and reefs.
- Essential
Health & protectionMosquito repellent
Mosquitoes are everywhere, especially in the evening and near the jungle.
- Essential
Cenotes & beachWaterproof phone pouch
To film in cenotes and at the beach without any risk.
- Recommended
Health & protectionFilter water bottle
Tap water isn't drinkable in Mexico: filter it and avoid plastic.
- Recommended
Health & protectionTravel first-aid kit
Band-aids, painkillers, anti-diarrhea meds: enough to handle small issues.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWaterproof bag
Papers and keys kept dry on boats, at the beach or by the cenotes.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWater shoes
For slippery cenote steps and rocky seabeds.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachMicrofiber towel
Light and quick-drying: perfect for swim after swim.
- Bonus
Travel & securityTSA lock
To lock your suitcase on the plane, with no risk of it being broken at security.
- Bonus
Travel & securityAirTag
To track your suitcase if your luggage is delayed or lost.
OUR YOUTUBE VIDEOS IN MEXICO 
During our 30-day road trip in Mexico 
, we filmed everything! From Holbox to Cancún, by way of Valladolid, Mérida, Bacalar, Tulum, Cozumel and Isla Mujeres, we take you along with us step by step in our vlogs.
You’ll discover the cenotes we swam in, the Mayan sites we explored, the beaches that made us dream, our places to stay, our favorite spots to eat… and above all our honest take on each place: what amazed us, and what disappointed us a little 
.
If you’re planning your trip, or simply dreaming of getting away, these videos will give you a real glimpse of Mexico, far from the tourist brochures.
Our road trip on video
Our YouTube videos in Mexico
Now watching: Episode 1 · Discovering Mexico & Holbox
21 minEpisode 1Discovering Mexico & Holbox- 17 minEpisode 2Cenotes & Mayan cities
- 9 minEpisode 3Mérida, Uxmal, Cuzamá & the bats
- 13 minEpisode 4Bacalar, a hidden paradise
- 12 minEpisode 5Tulum, Coba, Sian Ka'an & Cenote Azul
- 12 minEpisode 6Cozumel, diving & snorkeling
- 17 minEpisode 7Isla Mujeres, jet skiing & the end of the road trip
21 min
17 min
9 min
13 min
12 min
12 min
17 minTHANKS FOR YOUR FEEDBACK
Thanks for reading this article all the way to the end 🙏! We hope it helps you plan your trip.
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