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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 🇲🇽
Bacalar is an incredible town to discover in Mexico! Adeline and I spent 5 nights there in October 2021, and we only have good memories… except for the scam I fell for at the gas pump 🙁 (we tell you about it below). The town offers lots of activities: the Bacalar cenotes, Los Rápidos and above all exploring the Bacalar lagoon, nicknamed the Lagoon of Seven Colors 🌈.
What makes this place unique is the color of the water: from turquoise to navy blue, by way of green, depending on the depth, the bottom and the weather. With sun or clouds, the scenery is never the same 😇. On our trip, the lagoon was magnificent, very colorful, with even some green highlights. And since it’s fresh water, swimming is even more pleasant than in the sea.
By boat, by kayak or swimming, this lagoon is made to be explored. We chose a sailboat: here’s our afternoon, with all the up-to-date info so you can enjoy it too 👇
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
OUR AFTERNOON SAILING ON THE BACALAR LAGOON ⛵
SETTING OFF ON THE SAILBOAT
There are tons of agencies offering boat tours on the Bacalar lagoon 🛥️. We like small-group experiences, far from the crowds and the big boats where the customer experience isn’t the priority 🙄. At first, we’d planned to go with a French woman, Kristel, very highly rated in travelers’ groups, but her boat was still being renovated.
So we went with The Sailing Colibri, and we really loved being on a sailboat ⛵: the engine is barely used, you breathe fresh air and glide over the water in silence. We chose the shared tour, with 6 of us on the boat. It leaves from a dock north of downtown Bacalar, easy to reach on foot.
Our captain, Miguel, was incredibly kind and caring 🤙, and even spoke a little French. With perfect weather, everything came together for an exceptional afternoon.
CENOTE DE LA BRUJA AND A SWIM IN THE MIDDLE OF THE LAGOON
The trip lasts 3 to 4 hours. Miguel tells us the history of the lagoon, then we pass over Cenote de la Bruja, where you can clearly see the difference in depth: the water suddenly goes from turquoise to midnight blue 😱. First swim stop right in the middle of the lagoon… and you can stand! A great atmosphere on board, with pitaya (dragon fruit) and pineapple. It was one of our best afternoons in Mexico 😇.
THE PIRATES’ CHANNEL AND THE SUNSET
Second stop at the Pirates’ Channel (Canal de los Piratas) 🏴☠️. Pirates once used this channel to reach the Bacalar lagoon and the Río Hondo. It’s the busiest spot on the lagoon, with lots of boats, but we still enjoyed another swim 😍.
Back toward the dock watching the sunset, with guacamole and tortilla chips 😋. Being in a small group really makes the experience unique. Back at the dock around 6 p.m., with a big thank-you to our captain Miguel 👋.
THE NEW BOATING RULES ON THE LAGOON 🌿
This is important info we didn’t have on our trip. The Bacalar lagoon is home to stromatolites, living rocks built by microorganisms, among the oldest forms of life on Earth. They’re very fragile, and passing boats damage them.
Since 2025, the authorities have divided the lagoon into boating zones, with speed limits and protected areas where swimming and boating are banned. At the Pirates’ Channel and Los Rápidos, sailboats are still allowed, but motorboats need authorization from the harbor master. One more good reason to choose a sailboat ⛵!
- 🚫 Don’t touch, walk on or sit on the stromatolites.
- 🧴 No sunscreen or bug spray in the water, even biodegradable: bring a UV shirt.
- ✅ Choose an operator that respects the protected areas.
To learn more, read our article on the Bacalar cenotes, where we tell you about the Cocalitos stromatolite sanctuary.
SAILBOAT, MOTORBOAT OR KAYAK? 🛶
- ⛵ Sailboat: quiet, in a small group, with the sunset. It’s our favorite, and it’s more respectful of the lagoon.
- 🚤 Motorboat: often cheaper and faster, but in bigger groups and noisier.
- 🛶 Kayak or paddleboard: the cheapest option, rented from hotels and restaurants along the lagoon. Ideal early in the morning, when the water is calm.
- 🏊 Swimming: from a hotel or restaurant dock, as we did to reach a cenote.
HOW TO GET TO THE BACALAR LAGOON ⏳
BY CAR
Allow about 4 hours from Cancún or Playa del Carmen and 2.5 hours from Tulum. On the way, stop at the Mayan site of Muyil, at the entrance to the Sian Ka’an reserve. We were staying in Bacalar with our rental car, which also let us drive to Calakmul, 3.5 hours away.
BY BUS OR TREN MAYA
ADO buses serve Bacalar from Cancún, Playa del Carmen and Tulum. Since our trip, the Tren Maya also stops in Bacalar. Once there, you can do everything on foot or by bike: the lagoon is a stone’s throw from downtown.
RENTING A CAR IN MEXICO 🚗
To explore Yucatán and Quintana Roo, we think a rental car is the best option: you’re free to string together cenotes, Mayan sites and beaches at your own pace, without depending on bus schedules or organized tours 🌴.
We did our whole one-month road trip by car, and everything went really well. Here’s the agency we used and recommend, plus an alternative if you’d rather compare 👇
Our rental tip
Renting a car in Mexico
The agency we used, and an alternative to compare.
TouraCancun
Car rental in Mexico
We rented with them for our whole road trip: we recommend them without hesitation!
Our budget€95028 days, insurance included · ~€34/day
- Tested for 1 month
- Pick-up in Cancún
- Our go-to in Mexico
DiscoverCars
Rental comparison site
To compare several rental companies in a single search.
Excellent rating290,000+ Trustpilot reviews
- 1,000+ rental companies compared
- Free cancellation
- 24/7 support
To compare before you choose
Good to know before you rent
- Third-party liability insurance is mandatoryIn Mexico, it's often not included in the price shown online: check before you pay.
- A deposit on a credit cardAn amount is held on your card for the whole rental. Bring a card with a high enough limit.
- Your French driving license is enoughIt's accepted for tourists. The international driving permit is optional: only if you want one.
- Photos and video at pick-upFilm the car from every angle when you collect it, to avoid any dispute when you return it.
- Filling up at the gas stationCheck that the pump meter is at zero before the attendant starts.
- Watch out for “topes”These speed bumps are everywhere, sometimes without a sign: slow down as you enter villages.
To avoid nasty surprises on the road, read our article Renting a car in Mexico: how to avoid scams.
DISCOVER THE NEARBY MAYAN SITES 🦎
Explore the Mayan sites near here through nearly 40 articles about the Yucatán and Quintana Roo 🌍. Discover our best tips, itineraries, history, reviews and much more to make the most of your travel experience and dive 100% into discovering Mexico! It’s the perfect time to carefully plan your vacation ✈️.
DISCOVER THE NEARBY CENOTES 🧐
Now’s the time to explore the cenotes near here on my Mexico travel blog to make the most of your stay 🌟! You’ll find details on the history of these cenotes, our honest review, and captivating photos of your future discoveries 🌍. These articles will be essential resources for planning your trip to Mexico! 🗺️📸
PRICES AND HOURS FOR EXPLORING THE BACALAR LAGOON ⏰
- 🌅 Hours: the lagoon is accessible every day. Boat trips leave in the morning or the afternoon: the afternoon one lets you enjoy the sunset, like we did 😃.
- 🏊 Access: the lagoon is free, but most waterfront access points belong to hotels or restaurants, which charge an entry fee or require you to order something 😶.
- ⛵ Our experience: in 2021, we paid 850 pesos per person (€42) for the shared sailboat tour with The Sailing Colibri.
- 💸 2026 prices: the shared tour now costs 950 pesos per adult (about €48) and 650 pesos per child aged 3 to 9 (about €33), for about 4 hours, with departures at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. and 6 people maximum. Guacamole, water, beer and access to an area with a shower on the lagoon are included. The website already lists 1,050 pesos (about €53) per adult for 2027. Private trips start at 3,900 pesos (about €198) for the boat.
- 🎁 Promo code: LEPTITCURIEUX5 for 5% off with The Sailing Colibri.
THINGS TO KNOW 🥰
As always, here are our tips for exploring the Bacalar lagoon:
- 🔎 Lots of agencies: choose the experience that suits you (small group, sailboat, private…).
- 📅 Book your trip ahead, especially in high season.
- 🌅 Choose the afternoon trip for the sunset.
- 💧 The water is warm and fresh, so much more pleasant than seawater.
- 🌿 Respect the stromatolites and the protected areas.
- 🧴 No sunscreen in the lagoon: a UV shirt is a must.
- 🛶 On a tight budget? Kayaking is a great alternative.
- ⛽ Be wary of gas station attendants: count your bills out loud.
WHERE TO STAY IN BACALAR? 🏡
During our 5 nights in Bacalar, we stayed at Casa Chukum, a boutique hotel a few minutes’ walk from the lagoon. A really, really good hotel, with a pool and a garden: for us, it was truly incredible 💚.
Bacalar is also the ideal base for visiting Calakmul and the Bacalar cenotes.
👉 Compare places to stay in Bacalar on Booking, on the lagoon or downtown.
OUR TAKE ON THIS TOUR AND THE BACALAR LAGOON 💭
I think it shows in this article: we loved this trip with The Sailing Colibri. It ended up being our plan B, and we weren’t disappointed at all! So happy to have discovered this lagoon, its mysteries and its history with “best captain” Miguel 😆.
The Bacalar lagoon is one of the most beautiful places of our Mexico road trip. You can absolutely explore it by kayak, or even by swimming 🏊♂️, but sailing at sunset is still an experience to have. And with the new protection rules, it’s also the most respectful choice for the lagoon.
👉 What about you? Would you explore the Lagoon of Seven Colors by sailboat, by kayak or swimming?
FAQ: YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT THE BACALAR LAGOON ❓
Here are the questions we get asked most often about the Bacalar lagoon. Got another one? Ask it in the comments 😉.
Because the water changes color depending on the depth, the sandy bottom, the cenotes and the light: from turquoise to midnight blue, by way of green. The show also changes with the weather.
In 2021, we paid 850 pesos (€42) per person for a shared tour. In 2026, The Sailing Colibri’s shared tour costs 950 pesos per adult (about €48) for 4 hours. With the code LEPTITCURIEUX5, you get 5% off at The Sailing Colibri.
Yes, and it’s fresh water! Boat trips include swim stops. Just avoid the protected areas and never touch the stromatolites.
A sailboat is calmer, in a smaller group, and is still allowed in the Pirates’ Channel. A motorboat is often cheaper, but noisier and requires authorization in some areas.
It’s an old passage pirates used to connect the lagoon to the Río Hondo. Today it’s the busiest spot on the lagoon, with a swim stop on most trips.
Yes, lots of hotels and restaurants rent kayaks and paddleboards. It’s the cheapest option, ideal early in the morning.
It’s recommended, especially in high season and for sunset trips, which fill up fast.
By car (4 hours from Cancún, 2.5 hours from Tulum), by ADO bus or by Tren Maya, which now serves Bacalar.
No, you’re asked not to use sunscreen or bug spray in the water, even biodegradable, to protect the stromatolites.
Near the lagoon or downtown; you can do everything on foot. We loved Casa Chukum, a quiet boutique hotel a few minutes from the water.
WHERE TO STAY IN MEXICO 🏨
During our one-month road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽, we stayed in 8 different towns, alternating between Airbnbs and hotels. And we were always very happy with where we stayed 😇.
We deliberately avoided “All Inclusive” packages. It’s not our idea of travel: we’d rather be in the heart of towns and villages, eat local and discover the country at our own pace 🌮.
OUR TIPS FOR CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLACE TO STAY
- 📅 Book ahead in high season: the best places go fast and prices climb.
- 🚗 Private or secure parking if you’re traveling with a rental car. You’ll see, it’s not always available, but depending on the town it can be really worth having.
- ❄️ Air conditioning: essential in Yucatán and Quintana Roo, where it’s hot all year round.
- 🏊 A pool: up to you whether you want one at some of your stays, because it can quickly push the price up.
- 📍 A place close to the center: so you can do everything on foot in the evening. That said, if you like places outside town and you have the car, nothing forces you to stay near the center
- ✅ Free cancellation, to keep your itinerary flexible.
AIRBNB OR HOTEL IN MEXICO?
Both have their advantages. An Airbnb is ideal for more space, a kitchen and living like a local. A hotel is more convenient for one or two nights passing through, with a reception desk and often breakfast included. As for us, we liked both. It all depends on what you want, whether you’re with family, solo or as a couple, and how you like to travel.
HOW MUCH DOES ACCOMMODATION COST IN MEXICO?
There’s something for every taste and every budget. We paid between €40 and €100 a night for two. To be completely transparent with you: €1,800 for 29 nights, or about €62 a night on average (that was in 2021, prices may have changed since).
👇 Here are the 8 places where we slept during our road trip, with our review of each one.
Tested during our road trip
Our 8 places to stay in Mexico
AirbnbHotel
-
AirbnbHolbox
An incredible room, with the pool right next door to cool off. Just perfect!
- Room
- Pool right next door
- Incredible room
- Hotel
Valladolid
A stunning setting and a super spacious room, ideal for catching your breath between two cenotes.
- Very spacious room
- Pool
- On-site massages
- Airbnb
Mérida
A whole house just for us, with a small pool to relax.
- Whole house
- Small pool
- A bit out of the way
- Hotel
Bacalar
A gorgeous place right in the town center, with a superb pool.
- Hotel
- Superb pool
- Town center, far from the lagoon
- Airbnb
Tulum
A whole place with a pool, but very far out: you'll need the car.
- Whole place
- Pool
- Far out, car essential
- Airbnb
Cozumel
A clean, well-located studio, so you can do everything on foot from the town center.
- Studio
- Clean and well designed
- Close to the center
- Hotel
Isla Mujeres
A beautiful seafront hotel with a magnificent pool.
- Hotel
- Magnificent pool
- Seafront, a bit out of the way
- Hotel
Cancún
Right next to the airport: perfect for the first or last night of the trip.
- Hotel
- Close to the airport
- Ideal for the 1st or last night
MY MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GEAR 🧳
It’s a question that comes up a lot when preparing a trip “What should I bring?” That’s why you’ll find below some essential travel accessories to set off on vacation with peace of mind (your documents kept safe) 🛡️ . Planning ahead and getting these items in advance helps you save money and avoid paying for some of them on the spot, where they’ll cost you much more 💸 These are the accessories we took to Mexico and still use for every destination we travel to 👇.
Our road trip checklist
What to pack for Mexico?
Most of these items came with us throughout our 30-day road trip.
0 / 12 in my suitcase · check what you already have
- Essential
ElectronicsUniversal travel adapter
In Mexico, outlets are the American type: French chargers won't fit.
- Essential
ElectronicsPower bank
Long days between ruins and cenotes: your phone lasts until evening.
- Essential
Health & protectionBiodegradable sunscreen
Mineral and biodegradable, kinder to cenotes and reefs.
- Essential
Health & protectionMosquito repellent
Mosquitoes are everywhere, especially in the evening and near the jungle.
- Essential
Cenotes & beachWaterproof phone pouch
To film in cenotes and at the beach without any risk.
- Recommended
Health & protectionFilter water bottle
Tap water isn't drinkable in Mexico: filter it and avoid plastic.
- Recommended
Health & protectionTravel first-aid kit
Band-aids, painkillers, anti-diarrhea meds: enough to handle small issues.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWaterproof bag
Papers and keys kept dry on boats, at the beach or by the cenotes.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWater shoes
For slippery cenote steps and rocky seabeds.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachMicrofiber towel
Light and quick-drying: perfect for swim after swim.
- Bonus
Travel & securityTSA lock
To lock your suitcase on the plane, with no risk of it being broken at security.
- Bonus
Travel & securityAirTag
To track your suitcase if your luggage is delayed or lost.
OUR YOUTUBE VIDEOS IN MEXICO 
During our 30-day road trip in Mexico 
, we filmed everything! From Holbox to Cancún, by way of Valladolid, Mérida, Bacalar, Tulum, Cozumel and Isla Mujeres, we take you along with us step by step in our vlogs.
You’ll discover the cenotes we swam in, the Mayan sites we explored, the beaches that made us dream, our places to stay, our favorite spots to eat… and above all our honest take on each place: what amazed us, and what disappointed us a little 
.
If you’re planning your trip, or simply dreaming of getting away, these videos will give you a real glimpse of Mexico, far from the tourist brochures.
Our road trip on video
Our YouTube videos in Mexico
Now watching: Episode 1 · Discovering Mexico & Holbox
21 minEpisode 1Discovering Mexico & Holbox- 17 minEpisode 2Cenotes & Mayan cities
- 9 minEpisode 3Mérida, Uxmal, Cuzamá & the bats
- 13 minEpisode 4Bacalar, a hidden paradise
- 12 minEpisode 5Tulum, Coba, Sian Ka'an & Cenote Azul
- 12 minEpisode 6Cozumel, diving & snorkeling
- 17 minEpisode 7Isla Mujeres, jet skiing & the end of the road trip
21 min
17 min
9 min
13 min
12 min
12 min
17 minTHANKS FOR YOUR FEEDBACK
Thanks for reading this article all the way to the end 🙏! We hope it helps you plan your trip.
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