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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 📰
If you usually follow our adventures, now’s the time to read this one carefully 👀. In Mexico, there are lots of caves, some of which can be explored by caving. Personally, I like caving… but only in France 😅. Given what we came across that day (scorpions, a tarantula…), I’ll never set foot any deeper in these caves 😱.
We were lucky to cross paths with two French travelers, Audrey and Robin, who knew about the Calcehtok caves, about an hour from Mérida. They’re home to thousands, maybe even millions, of bats 🦇, which all fly out together at sunset to feed.
It’s an experience to live at least once in your life. Adeline and I had it in October 2021, and it’s one of our best memories around Mérida 😉. We tell you all about it, with our tips for getting there 👇
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
OUR EVENING AT THE CALCEHTOK CAVES 🕷️
ARRIVING AT THE CAVES
That day, we’d visited the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá in the morning, before passing back through Mérida in the early afternoon. We then headed to Calcehtok, arriving between 4 and 5 p.m.
It’s about a 1-hour drive from Mérida. The first part of the drive is easy, but the last few kilometers require a lot of attention: lots of potholes and topes (Mexican speed bumps) can damage your car ⚠️. The end of the drive is on a dirt track that leads to the parking lot. From there, it’s about a 500-meter walk, with a good bit of elevation, to reach the cave entrance.
On site, we were greeted by our guide, Aureliano. Access to the caves is free, but the visit is done with a local guide: in 2021, we paid 400 pesos (€20) for our group of 4, or 100 pesos (€5) per person. Honestly, that was nothing for what we experienced.
VISITING THE CAVES
Audrey and Robin spoke good Spanish, which meant we could understand all of Aureliano’s explanations 🙂. For about 30 minutes to 1 hour, we stayed in the caves, with no need to crawl. You learn a lot about the Maya and their beliefs, and Aureliano even shows you quartz collected by the Maya.
But it’s mostly the residents that left an impression on us: our first scorpion 🦂, and a huge tarantula 🕷️. I have a real phobia of spiders, it’s my biggest fear… and seeing such impressive scorpions on top of that was pretty shocking 😱. These caves are full of species you’d never come across in France 🙄.
THOUSANDS OF BATS 🦇
Then comes the long-awaited moment: the bats flying out 🤗. You have to be patient and wait for sunset, around 6:30 p.m. when we visited 🌄. A few bats start to come out… then, in a matter of seconds, thousands of them leave the cave. It’s magnificent 😍, and given how many there are, it’s incredibly loud!
According to our guide Aureliano, between 1 and 2 million bats fly out of the cave in about ten minutes. That’s his estimate, not an official figure, but seeing that cloud of bats, it’s not hard to believe 😲. And the best part: it was just the four of us, no one else. It’s a very untouristy place that few travelers know about.
COMBINING CALCEHTOK WITH CUZAMÁ, UXMAL OR THE RUTA PUUC 🗺️
Calcehtok is south of Mérida, on the way to Uxmal. It’s perfect for ending a great day:
- 💧 Like we did: the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá in the morning, then Calcehtok late in the day.
- 🏛️ For Mayan sites: Uxmal and the Ruta Puuc during the day, then Calcehtok for the bat exodus.
- 🦇 Another bat show: on the road to Calakmul, a cave offers the same phenomenon late in the day.
HOW TO GET TO THE CALCEHTOK CAVES ⏳
BY CAR
It’s clearly the best option. Allow about 1 hour from Mérida, 2 hours 10 minutes from Valladolid and 4 hours from Cancún or Playa del Carmen. We were staying in Mérida, with our rental car.
⚠️ Watch out for this trap: another entrance has the same name, on the road to the Oxkintok archaeological site. To reach the original entrance, keep going straight instead of turning toward the ruins.
BY BUS, TAXI OR ON A TOUR
There’s no direct bus to the caves. By taxi from Mérida, the round trip with the wait until sunset is likely to cost a lot 💰. Some tours from Mérida include a visit to the caves.
RENTING A CAR IN MEXICO 🚗
To explore Yucatán and Quintana Roo, we think a rental car is the best option: you’re free to string together cenotes, Mayan sites and beaches at your own pace, without depending on bus schedules or organized tours 🌴.
We did our whole one-month road trip by car, and everything went really well. Here’s the agency we used and recommend, plus an alternative if you’d rather compare 👇
Our rental tip
Renting a car in Mexico
The agency we used, and an alternative to compare.
TouraCancun
Car rental in Mexico
We rented with them for our whole road trip: we recommend them without hesitation!
Our budget€95028 days, insurance included · ~€34/day
- Tested for 1 month
- Pick-up in Cancún
- Our go-to in Mexico
DiscoverCars
Rental comparison site
To compare several rental companies in a single search.
Excellent rating290,000+ Trustpilot reviews
- 1,000+ rental companies compared
- Free cancellation
- 24/7 support
To compare before you choose
Good to know before you rent
- Third-party liability insurance is mandatoryIn Mexico, it's often not included in the price shown online: check before you pay.
- A deposit on a credit cardAn amount is held on your card for the whole rental. Bring a card with a high enough limit.
- Your French driving license is enoughIt's accepted for tourists. The international driving permit is optional: only if you want one.
- Photos and video at pick-upFilm the car from every angle when you collect it, to avoid any dispute when you return it.
- Filling up at the gas stationCheck that the pump meter is at zero before the attendant starts.
- Watch out for “topes”These speed bumps are everywhere, sometimes without a sign: slow down as you enter villages.
For us, the car was essential: it let us do the Cuzamá cenotes and Calcehtok on the same day 🚗. All our tips are in our article on renting a car in Mexico without getting scammed.
DISCOVER THE NEARBY MAYAN SITES 🦎
Explore the Mayan sites near here through nearly 40 articles about the Yucatán and Quintana Roo 🌍. Discover our best tips, itineraries, history, reviews and much more to make the most of your travel experience and dive 100% into discovering Mexico! It’s the perfect time to carefully plan your vacation ✈️.
DISCOVER THE NEARBY CENOTES 🧐
Now’s the time to explore the cenotes near here on my Mexico travel blog to make the most of your stay 🌟! You’ll find details on the history of these cenotes, our honest review, and captivating photos of your future discoveries 🌍. These articles will be essential resources for planning your trip to Mexico! 🗺️📸
CALCEHTOK CAVES PRICES AND HOURS ⏰
- 🕰️ Hours: roughly 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. according to recent sources. For the bat exodus, you need to stay until sunset: arrive in the late afternoon.
- 🎟️ Entry: free when we visited.
- 🧑🏫 Our experience: in 2021, we paid the guide 400 pesos (€20) for 4 people, or 100 pesos (€5) each. There’s no fixed rate: the price is negotiated directly with the guide on site, and the more of you there are, the less you pay.
- 🅿️ Parking: free.
- 💵 Payment: cash only. We explain everything in Where to withdraw money in Mexico.
THINGS TO KNOW 🥰
As always, here are our tips for visiting the Calcehtok caves:
- 🌅 Arrive between 4 and 5 p.m. to visit the caves before the bats fly out.
- 🦇 You can’t be afraid of bats… or spiders 😅.
- 🦂 You may come across scorpions, tarantulas and sometimes even snakes.
- 🧑🏫 A local guide comes with you: negotiate the price as a group.
- 🚗 The drive back is in the dark: go slowly because of the potholes and topes.
- ⚠️ Don’t go to the wrong entrance: keep going straight, don’t turn toward Oxkintok.
- 🍽️ No food on site: bring water and a snack.
- 😌 A very untouristy outing: we were alone.
- 🧗 Caving is possible in these caves, for the most adventurous.
- ♻️ Leave the place as clean as you found it.
EXPLORE MÉRIDA AND ITS SURROUNDINGS ON A TOUR
For 90% of our visits, we didn’t book anything, because our rental car made us independent. For Calcehtok, you can’t book online: everything is arranged on site with the guide. But if you’d like to explore the area around Mérida without a car, here are a few tours 👇
OUR TAKE ON THE CALCEHTOK CAVES 💭
To be honest with you, as always, it’s one of the best experiences we had around Mérida 😇. Neither Adeline nor I had ever seen so many bats 🦇. Some experiences only happen once, and this is one of them 👏. Our guide Aureliano was incredible and so kind, and sharing this moment with Audrey and Robin, alone in the world, made it even more special.
You just have to accept running into a few critters in the caves… My memories are mixed when it comes to the spiders 😅, but the bat show was more than worth the fright. If you’re passing through Mérida, don’t miss it: a Cuzamá + Calcehtok day is the perfect combo 💖!
👉 What about you? Would you dare go into the Calcehtok caves, or would you wait for the bats outside?
FAQ: YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT THE CALCEHTOK CAVES ❓
Here are the questions we get asked most often about the Calcehtok caves. Got another one? Ask it in the comments 😉.
Entry was free when we visited, and we paid the guide 400 pesos (€20) for 4 people in 2021, or 100 pesos (€5) each. There’s no fixed rate: the price is negotiated with the guide on site.
At sunset. When we visited in October, they started coming out around 6:30 p.m. Arrive between 4 and 5 p.m. to visit the caves beforehand.
Thousands, no doubt about it. Our guide talked about 1 to 2 million bats in about ten minutes, an impressive but unofficial estimate.
Yes, to go inside the caves. Some travelers have seen the bats fly out without a guide, depending on the day and the crowds.
By car, in about 1 hour. There’s no direct bus. Be careful not to turn toward Oxkintok: the original entrance is straight ahead.
No, but you’ll come across scorpions, tarantulas and sometimes snakes. Stay with the guide and don’t touch anything. The trickiest part is the drive back, in the dark.
Allow 30 minutes to 1 hour in the caves, then the wait until sunset, or about 2 hours on site.
The 3 cenotes of Cuzamá, the Mayan site of Uxmal and the Ruta Puuc combine very well with Calcehtok at the end of the day.
WHERE TO STAY IN MEXICO 🏨
During our one-month road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽, we stayed in 8 different towns, alternating between Airbnbs and hotels. And we were always very happy with where we stayed 😇.
We deliberately avoided “All Inclusive” packages. It’s not our idea of travel: we’d rather be in the heart of towns and villages, eat local and discover the country at our own pace 🌮.
OUR TIPS FOR CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLACE TO STAY
- 📅 Book ahead in high season: the best places go fast and prices climb.
- 🚗 Private or secure parking if you’re traveling with a rental car. You’ll see, it’s not always available, but depending on the town it can be really worth having.
- ❄️ Air conditioning: essential in Yucatán and Quintana Roo, where it’s hot all year round.
- 🏊 A pool: up to you whether you want one at some of your stays, because it can quickly push the price up.
- 📍 A place close to the center: so you can do everything on foot in the evening. That said, if you like places outside town and you have the car, nothing forces you to stay near the center
- ✅ Free cancellation, to keep your itinerary flexible.
AIRBNB OR HOTEL IN MEXICO?
Both have their advantages. An Airbnb is ideal for more space, a kitchen and living like a local. A hotel is more convenient for one or two nights passing through, with a reception desk and often breakfast included. As for us, we liked both. It all depends on what you want, whether you’re with family, solo or as a couple, and how you like to travel.
HOW MUCH DOES ACCOMMODATION COST IN MEXICO?
There’s something for every taste and every budget. We paid between €40 and €100 a night for two. To be completely transparent with you: €1,800 for 29 nights, or about €62 a night on average (that was in 2021, prices may have changed since).
👇 Here are the 8 places where we slept during our road trip, with our review of each one.
Tested during our road trip
Our 8 places to stay in Mexico
AirbnbHotel
-
AirbnbHolbox
An incredible room, with the pool right next door to cool off. Just perfect!
- Room
- Pool right next door
- Incredible room
- Hotel
Valladolid
A stunning setting and a super spacious room, ideal for catching your breath between two cenotes.
- Very spacious room
- Pool
- On-site massages
- Airbnb
Mérida
A whole house just for us, with a small pool to relax.
- Whole house
- Small pool
- A bit out of the way
- Hotel
Bacalar
A gorgeous place right in the town center, with a superb pool.
- Hotel
- Superb pool
- Town center, far from the lagoon
- Airbnb
Tulum
A whole place with a pool, but very far out: you'll need the car.
- Whole place
- Pool
- Far out, car essential
- Airbnb
Cozumel
A clean, well-located studio, so you can do everything on foot from the town center.
- Studio
- Clean and well designed
- Close to the center
- Hotel
Isla Mujeres
A beautiful seafront hotel with a magnificent pool.
- Hotel
- Magnificent pool
- Seafront, a bit out of the way
- Hotel
Cancún
Right next to the airport: perfect for the first or last night of the trip.
- Hotel
- Close to the airport
- Ideal for the 1st or last night
MY MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GEAR 🧳
It’s a question that comes up a lot when preparing a trip “What should I bring?” That’s why you’ll find below some essential travel accessories to set off on vacation with peace of mind (your documents kept safe) 🛡️ . Planning ahead and getting these items in advance helps you save money and avoid paying for some of them on the spot, where they’ll cost you much more 💸 These are the accessories we took to Mexico and still use for every destination we travel to 👇.
Our road trip checklist
What to pack for Mexico?
Most of these items came with us throughout our 30-day road trip.
0 / 12 in my suitcase · check what you already have
- Essential
ElectronicsUniversal travel adapter
In Mexico, outlets are the American type: French chargers won't fit.
- Essential
ElectronicsPower bank
Long days between ruins and cenotes: your phone lasts until evening.
- Essential
Health & protectionBiodegradable sunscreen
Mineral and biodegradable, kinder to cenotes and reefs.
- Essential
Health & protectionMosquito repellent
Mosquitoes are everywhere, especially in the evening and near the jungle.
- Essential
Cenotes & beachWaterproof phone pouch
To film in cenotes and at the beach without any risk.
- Recommended
Health & protectionFilter water bottle
Tap water isn't drinkable in Mexico: filter it and avoid plastic.
- Recommended
Health & protectionTravel first-aid kit
Band-aids, painkillers, anti-diarrhea meds: enough to handle small issues.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWaterproof bag
Papers and keys kept dry on boats, at the beach or by the cenotes.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWater shoes
For slippery cenote steps and rocky seabeds.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachMicrofiber towel
Light and quick-drying: perfect for swim after swim.
- Bonus
Travel & securityTSA lock
To lock your suitcase on the plane, with no risk of it being broken at security.
- Bonus
Travel & securityAirTag
To track your suitcase if your luggage is delayed or lost.
OUR YOUTUBE VIDEOS IN MEXICO 
During our 30-day road trip in Mexico 
, we filmed everything! From Holbox to Cancún, by way of Valladolid, Mérida, Bacalar, Tulum, Cozumel and Isla Mujeres, we take you along with us step by step in our vlogs.
You’ll discover the cenotes we swam in, the Mayan sites we explored, the beaches that made us dream, our places to stay, our favorite spots to eat… and above all our honest take on each place: what amazed us, and what disappointed us a little 
.
If you’re planning your trip, or simply dreaming of getting away, these videos will give you a real glimpse of Mexico, far from the tourist brochures.
Our road trip on video
Our YouTube videos in Mexico
Now watching: Episode 1 · Discovering Mexico & Holbox
21 minEpisode 1Discovering Mexico & Holbox- 17 minEpisode 2Cenotes & Mayan cities
- 9 minEpisode 3Mérida, Uxmal, Cuzamá & the bats
- 13 minEpisode 4Bacalar, a hidden paradise
- 12 minEpisode 5Tulum, Coba, Sian Ka'an & Cenote Azul
- 12 minEpisode 6Cozumel, diving & snorkeling
- 17 minEpisode 7Isla Mujeres, jet skiing & the end of the road trip
21 min
17 min
9 min
13 min
12 min
12 min
17 minTHANKS FOR YOUR FEEDBACK
Thanks for reading this article all the way to the end 🙏! We hope it helps you plan your trip.
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