This article contains affiliate links. When you book a hotel, a car rental or an activity through these links, we receive a commission from the advertiser at no extra cost to you 💕. By using them, you support us while paying exactly the same price 🙏. We earn a commission from the advertiser at no extra cost to you 💕. Thank you!
Our partners
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 🇲🇽
Mexico is full of unique places, and Calakmul is one of them! This Mayan city is hidden deep in the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, the largest reserve in Mexico, with more than 7,200 km² (2,780 sq mi) of jungle listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site 🌳. You might come across howler monkeys, peacocks, crocodiles and even jaguars (we didn’t, but anything is possible 😆).
At its height, Calakmul was one of the most powerful Mayan cities, the great rival of Tikal in Guatemala. The site is a few dozen kilometers from the Guatemalan border, and it’s easy to get lost in this vast jungle. It’s very different from Chichén Itzá, and much less touristy.
We visited it in October 2021 with Adeline, from Bacalar, during our one-month road trip. In this article, we tell you about our day and give you all the up-to-date info for visiting Calakmul: access, 2026 prices, opening hours, the Tren Maya, where to stay and our tips 👇
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
OUR DAY IN CALAKMUL 🚗
ENTERING THE CALAKMUL JUNGLE
This day involves a lot of driving: allow 3.5 hours on the road from Bacalar, which is what we did, so about 7 hours round trip to visit Calakmul and its pyramids 😱. Before reaching the first payment booth, you already have to drive about 2.5 hours. You may come across police or army checkpoints: just say you’re a tourist on your way to visit Calakmul.
When we reached the first toll booth, at the start of the biosphere road, we paid 150 pesos per person (about €7). This toll only gets you into the jungle: it’s not the ticket for the site. A bit further on, we had to pay a second access fee, then the site admission itself. From there on, you can’t buy food or water, and there’s no ATM: plan everything ahead, in pesos in cash.
Just before the first toll booth, a restaurant sells “lunch boxes” for a picnic. After the toll, the scenery changes completely: for about 60 km (37 miles), you drive right through the jungle, on a narrow road that isn’t always well maintained (potholes, branches on the road…).
Around kilometer 27, we stopped to try to spot crocodiles 🐊 on a small marked trail. The only thing we saw was thousands of mosquitoes out for our blood 😅. We got back in the car pretty fast: whatever you do, don’t forget your bug spray 🦟.
ARRIVING AT THE CALAKMUL PARKING LOT
We arrived around 9:30 a.m. Since Calakmul is very far from the tourist areas, it gets far fewer visitors than Chichén Itzá or Ek Balam. Parking is free, large and easy to get to 🅿️.
To enter the site, we paid 80 pesos per person (about €4). In total, with the access fees along the road, it came to around 240 pesos per person (about ten euros), much less than Chichén Itzá, where we paid about €23. Prices have gone up since: we give you the current rates below.
It was right after COVID, and we were almost alone on the site: a real privilege 🥰.
DISCOVERING THIS UNIQUE PLACE
We set off down the trail to discover the Mayan city of Calakmul. The heavy humidity makes the slightest effort hard. We stayed 3 to 4 hours on the site, without a guide, at our own pace.
Very quickly, you hear the howler monkeys. They make a huge racket, hidden in the trees, and you eventually spot them. It was the first time we’d ever seen them, and it was really impressive 🐒! We also came across peacocks roaming free. As for other animals, we didn’t see many, but depending on the season and the time of day, you can see a lot more.
THE GREAT ACROPOLIS
First stop, the Great Acropolis, a huge complex of plazas and buildings. We were able to climb it and enjoy a gorgeous view over the jungle 😍.
STRUCTURE II, THE GREAT PYRAMID
Structure II is Calakmul’s most famous pyramid, and one of the tallest in the Mayan world. It was the center of power, and some rulers were buried there. The climb is seriously tough, but we did it, and the view from the top is breathtaking: nothing but canopy as far as the eye can see, with Structure I poking out above the trees on the right 🤩.
⚠️ Heads up: the areas open for climbing may change depending on conservation work. Ask at the entrance on the day of your visit.
STRUCTURE I
The last big pyramid is Structure I, rising over 40 meters (130 ft). With the humidity, you’re going to sweat 🥵. The view is just as extraordinary: a magical moment, deep in the jungle, without a single house on the horizon.
HOW TO GET TO CALAKMUL ⏳
BY CAR
It’s clearly the best option, and it’s what we did. Allow about 3.5 hours from Bacalar, 3 hours 45 minutes from Tulum and 5.5 hours from Cancún or Playa del Carmen. The access road branches off Federal Highway 186 (between Escárcega and Chetumal), then heads into the jungle for about sixty kilometers. Leave early to enjoy the site before the heat and avoid driving back at night.
BY TREN MAYA
Since the Tren Maya opened, you can get to Xpujil station, the closest town, and a stop called Calakmul on the line. Heads up: the site isn’t next to the station: there are still more than a hundred kilometers of road to cover, by rental car, private taxi or on an organized tour from Xpujil.
ON AN ORGANIZED TOUR
There are no buses or colectivos to the site. If you don’t have a car, the easiest option is a day tour from Xpujil or Bacalar, with transportation and sometimes a guide included.
RENTING A CAR IN MEXICO 🚗
To explore Yucatán and Quintana Roo, we think a rental car is the best option: you’re free to string together cenotes, Mayan sites and beaches at your own pace, without depending on bus schedules or organized tours 🌴.
We did our whole one-month road trip by car, and everything went really well. Here’s the agency we used and recommend, plus an alternative if you’d rather compare 👇
Our rental tip
Renting a car in Mexico
The agency we used, and an alternative to compare.
TouraCancun
Car rental in Mexico
We rented with them for our whole road trip: we recommend them without hesitation!
Our budget€95028 days, insurance included · ~€34/day
- Tested for 1 month
- Pick-up in Cancún
- Our go-to in Mexico
DiscoverCars
Rental comparison site
To compare several rental companies in a single search.
Excellent rating290,000+ Trustpilot reviews
- 1,000+ rental companies compared
- Free cancellation
- 24/7 support
To compare before you choose
Good to know before you rent
- Third-party liability insurance is mandatoryIn Mexico, it's often not included in the price shown online: check before you pay.
- A deposit on a credit cardAn amount is held on your card for the whole rental. Bring a card with a high enough limit.
- Your French driving license is enoughIt's accepted for tourists. The international driving permit is optional: only if you want one.
- Photos and video at pick-upFilm the car from every angle when you collect it, to avoid any dispute when you return it.
- Filling up at the gas stationCheck that the pump meter is at zero before the attendant starts.
- Watch out for “topes”These speed bumps are everywhere, sometimes without a sign: slow down as you enter villages.
For us, the car was essential on this trip: it let us be 100% independent and visit Calakmul without relying on anyone 🚗. You’ll find all our tips in our article on renting a car in Mexico without getting scammed.
DISCOVER THE NEARBY MAYAN SITES 🦎
Explore the Mayan sites near here through nearly 40 articles about the Yucatán and Quintana Roo 🌍. Discover our best tips, itineraries, history, reviews and much more to make the most of your travel experience and dive 100% into discovering Mexico! It’s the perfect time to carefully plan your vacation ✈️.
DISCOVER THE NEARBY CENOTES 🧐
Now’s the time to explore the cenotes near here on my Mexico travel blog to make the most of your stay 🌟! You’ll find details on the history of these cenotes, our honest review, and captivating photos of your future discoveries 🌍. These articles will be essential resources for planning your trip to Mexico! 🗺️📸
PRICES AND OPENING HOURS FOR VISITING CALAKMUL ⏰
- 🕰️ Opening hours: every day from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., last entry around 4 p.m. (info checked in October 2026).
- 💸 Site admission (INAH): 210 pesos per person for a foreign visitor in 2026. The site museum is included.
- 🌳 Access fees along the road: also plan for the biosphere reserve access fee and the local toll at the start of the road. The amounts vary depending on the source: keep a few hundred extra pesos in cash.
- 💵 Payment: cash only along the road, no ATM on site.
- 🅿️ Parking: free.
- 🧑🏫 Guide: available on site, helpful for understanding the city’s history (we didn’t hire one).
For comparison, we paid a 150-peso toll and then 80 pesos for admission in 2021. Prices have gone up a lot since, but Calakmul is still much cheaper than the big Yucatán sites.
THINGS TO KNOW 🥰
As in all our articles, here are our tips for visiting the Mayan city of Calakmul:
- 🍽️ No food on site: buy a lunch box before the first toll booth.
- 💧 Bring lots of water, it’s very hot and humid.
- 🦟 Bring bug spray, the mosquitoes are fierce!
- 🌳 Drive carefully in the jungle: low light, potholes and animals on the road (peacocks, ocellated turkeys…).
- ⏰ Leave early: we arrived around 9:30 a.m., with very few people, and stayed 3 to 4 hours.
- 🧗 We were able to climb the pyramids, a real treat compared with other sites: check on site what’s open.
- 🦇 Like at Calcehtok, you can see thousands of bats flying out of a cave at the end of the day, on the way back. We didn’t see them, since we’d done the site in the morning.
- 💻 No need to book online: tickets are sold on site.
- 🤝 If you hire a guide, a tip is always appreciated.
CALAKMUL OR CHICHÉN ITZÁ? 🤔
They’re two completely different experiences. Chichén Itzá is the most famous site in Mexico: easy to reach, spectacular, but very crowded, and you can no longer climb the pyramid. Calakmul is an adventure: a long road through the jungle, very few visitors, wild animals and pyramids lost in the canopy.
If you only have time for one site, Chichén Itzá is easier to fit into an itinerary. But if you’re passing through Bacalar and you love nature and off-the-beaten-path places, Calakmul is well worth the detour 💪.
WHERE TO STAY NEAR CALAKMUL? 🏡
To avoid the 7-hour round trip in one day, you can stay nearby:
- 🏘️ Xpujil: the closest town, with simple places to stay, restaurants and the Tren Maya station. It’s the ideal base for getting to the site right at opening.
- 🏨 The Hotel Tren Maya Calakmul: opened right in the reserve, about ten kilometers from the site, it lets you sleep in the heart of the jungle.
- 🌊 Bacalar: that’s what we did. Farther away (3.5 hours’ drive), but ideal if you’re combining it with the Lagoon of Seven Colors, its cenotes and Los Rápidos.
👉 Compare places to stay in Xpujil and Bacalar on Booking to find the best base for your itinerary.
DISCOVER THE MAYAN CITY OF CALAKMUL ON A TOUR
A lot of you wonder whether to book ahead or on the day. For 90% of our visits, we didn’t book anything online, because our rental car made us independent. But for Calakmul, without a car, a tour really is the easiest solution. Here are a few if you’d like to have someone take you 🌐.
OUR REVIEW OF THE MAYAN CITY OF CALAKMUL 💭
It’s a unique place in Mexico, with tons of charm, and it deserves to be much better known. The huge advantage was being able to climb the pyramids and being almost alone, surrounded by jungle: it’s a complete change from the touristy sites of the Yucatán. With the heat, you need to be reasonably fit, because the steps are exhausting (even I was glad to reach the top 😅).
The question lots of travelers ask: “Is it worth driving 7 hours?” Yes, I can confirm it is 💪! And today, with the Tren Maya and the places to stay in Xpujil, it’s even easier to plan. It’s just you, the jungle, the howler monkeys and the Mayan ruins. An experience to have, and maybe even one of our best memories of Mayan sites.
👉 What about you? Does Calakmul tempt you, or does the 7-hour drive scare you off?
FAQ: YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT CALAKMUL ❓
Here are the questions we get asked most often about Calakmul. Got another one? Ask it in the comments 😉.
In 2026, site admission costs 210 pesos per person for a foreign visitor. On top of that are the access fees paid along the biosphere road, in cash. In 2021, we paid a 150-peso toll and 80 pesos for admission.
The site is open every day from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., with last entry around 4 p.m. Given the drive, leave very early to get there at opening time.
Allow 3 to 4 hours on the site, like we did, and at least a full day with the drive from Bacalar. From Xpujil, a busy half day can be enough.
There are no buses or colectivos to the site. You can take the Tren Maya to Xpujil, then an organized tour or a private taxi. Tours from Bacalar are also a good option.
During our visit, we were able to climb the Great Acropolis and Structures I and II. Some areas may be closed for conservation: ask at the entrance.
We saw howler monkeys and peacocks. Depending on the season and the time of day, you can also come across spider monkeys, toucans, ocellated turkeys, coatis and, more rarely, jaguars.
Xpujil is the most convenient base, with the Tren Maya station. The Hotel Tren Maya Calakmul lets you sleep right in the reserve. Bacalar is farther away, but ideal for combining with the lagoon.
Yes, if you love nature and uncrowded sites: it’s one of the best memories of our road trip. If you’re short on time and aren’t heading south, Chichén Itzá or Cobá will be easier.
No, tickets are sold on site. Just bring pesos in cash, as there are no ATMs along the road.
They’re old rivals and look alike: big pyramids deep in the jungle. Tikal, in Guatemala, is better known and busier. If you’re in Mexico, Calakmul is much easier to combine with Bacalar.
WHERE TO STAY IN MEXICO 🏨
During our one-month road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽, we stayed in 8 different towns, alternating between Airbnbs and hotels. And we were always very happy with where we stayed 😇.
We deliberately avoided “All Inclusive” packages. It’s not our idea of travel: we’d rather be in the heart of towns and villages, eat local and discover the country at our own pace 🌮.
OUR TIPS FOR CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLACE TO STAY
- 📅 Book ahead in high season: the best places go fast and prices climb.
- 🚗 Private or secure parking if you’re traveling with a rental car. You’ll see, it’s not always available, but depending on the town it can be really worth having.
- ❄️ Air conditioning: essential in Yucatán and Quintana Roo, where it’s hot all year round.
- 🏊 A pool: up to you whether you want one at some of your stays, because it can quickly push the price up.
- 📍 A place close to the center: so you can do everything on foot in the evening. That said, if you like places outside town and you have the car, nothing forces you to stay near the center
- ✅ Free cancellation, to keep your itinerary flexible.
AIRBNB OR HOTEL IN MEXICO?
Both have their advantages. An Airbnb is ideal for more space, a kitchen and living like a local. A hotel is more convenient for one or two nights passing through, with a reception desk and often breakfast included. As for us, we liked both. It all depends on what you want, whether you’re with family, solo or as a couple, and how you like to travel.
HOW MUCH DOES ACCOMMODATION COST IN MEXICO?
There’s something for every taste and every budget. We paid between €40 and €100 a night for two. To be completely transparent with you: €1,800 for 29 nights, or about €62 a night on average (that was in 2021, prices may have changed since).
👇 Here are the 8 places where we slept during our road trip, with our review of each one.
Tested during our road trip
Our 8 places to stay in Mexico
AirbnbHotel
-
AirbnbHolbox
An incredible room, with the pool right next door to cool off. Just perfect!
- Room
- Pool right next door
- Incredible room
- Hotel
Valladolid
A stunning setting and a super spacious room, ideal for catching your breath between two cenotes.
- Very spacious room
- Pool
- On-site massages
- Airbnb
Mérida
A whole house just for us, with a small pool to relax.
- Whole house
- Small pool
- A bit out of the way
- Hotel
Bacalar
A gorgeous place right in the town center, with a superb pool.
- Hotel
- Superb pool
- Town center, far from the lagoon
- Airbnb
Tulum
A whole place with a pool, but very far out: you'll need the car.
- Whole place
- Pool
- Far out, car essential
- Airbnb
Cozumel
A clean, well-located studio, so you can do everything on foot from the town center.
- Studio
- Clean and well designed
- Close to the center
- Hotel
Isla Mujeres
A beautiful seafront hotel with a magnificent pool.
- Hotel
- Magnificent pool
- Seafront, a bit out of the way
- Hotel
Cancún
Right next to the airport: perfect for the first or last night of the trip.
- Hotel
- Close to the airport
- Ideal for the 1st or last night
MY MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GEAR 🧳
It’s a question that comes up a lot when preparing a trip “What should I bring?” That’s why you’ll find below some essential travel accessories to set off on vacation with peace of mind (your documents kept safe) 🛡️ . Planning ahead and getting these items in advance helps you save money and avoid paying for some of them on the spot, where they’ll cost you much more 💸 These are the accessories we took to Mexico and still use for every destination we travel to 👇.
Our road trip checklist
What to pack for Mexico?
Most of these items came with us throughout our 30-day road trip.
0 / 12 in my suitcase · check what you already have
- Essential
ElectronicsUniversal travel adapter
In Mexico, outlets are the American type: French chargers won't fit.
- Essential
ElectronicsPower bank
Long days between ruins and cenotes: your phone lasts until evening.
- Essential
Health & protectionBiodegradable sunscreen
Mineral and biodegradable, kinder to cenotes and reefs.
- Essential
Health & protectionMosquito repellent
Mosquitoes are everywhere, especially in the evening and near the jungle.
- Essential
Cenotes & beachWaterproof phone pouch
To film in cenotes and at the beach without any risk.
- Recommended
Health & protectionFilter water bottle
Tap water isn't drinkable in Mexico: filter it and avoid plastic.
- Recommended
Health & protectionTravel first-aid kit
Band-aids, painkillers, anti-diarrhea meds: enough to handle small issues.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWaterproof bag
Papers and keys kept dry on boats, at the beach or by the cenotes.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWater shoes
For slippery cenote steps and rocky seabeds.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachMicrofiber towel
Light and quick-drying: perfect for swim after swim.
- Bonus
Travel & securityTSA lock
To lock your suitcase on the plane, with no risk of it being broken at security.
- Bonus
Travel & securityAirTag
To track your suitcase if your luggage is delayed or lost.
OUR YOUTUBE VIDEOS IN MEXICO 
During our 30-day road trip in Mexico 
, we filmed everything! From Holbox to Cancún, by way of Valladolid, Mérida, Bacalar, Tulum, Cozumel and Isla Mujeres, we take you along with us step by step in our vlogs.
You’ll discover the cenotes we swam in, the Mayan sites we explored, the beaches that made us dream, our places to stay, our favorite spots to eat… and above all our honest take on each place: what amazed us, and what disappointed us a little 
.
If you’re planning your trip, or simply dreaming of getting away, these videos will give you a real glimpse of Mexico, far from the tourist brochures.
Our road trip on video
Our YouTube videos in Mexico
Now watching: Episode 1 · Discovering Mexico & Holbox
21 minEpisode 1Discovering Mexico & Holbox- 17 minEpisode 2Cenotes & Mayan cities
- 9 minEpisode 3Mérida, Uxmal, Cuzamá & the bats
- 13 minEpisode 4Bacalar, a hidden paradise
- 12 minEpisode 5Tulum, Coba, Sian Ka'an & Cenote Azul
- 12 minEpisode 6Cozumel, diving & snorkeling
- 17 minEpisode 7Isla Mujeres, jet skiing & the end of the road trip
21 min
17 min
9 min
13 min
12 min
12 min
17 minTHANKS FOR YOUR FEEDBACK
Thanks for reading this article all the way to the end 🙏! We hope it helps you plan your trip.
A question, a doubt about your itinerary, or simply want to tell us what you thought? Write to us in the comments. Your messages also help other travelers plan their trip, and they always make us very happy 💚.
And if our articles are useful to you, a quick review on Google or Trustpilot helps us enormously to spread the word about the blog ⭐. Thanks for following us!