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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 🇲🇽
Holbox is an island in Mexico off the north coast of the Yucatán Peninsula. Holbox Island is a dream destination for travelers looking to relax on its pristine white sand beaches ⛱️. This small Mexican island of 42 km² (16 sq mi) is a lovely discovery. The island’s main beach, several kilometers long, is known for its white sand, its waters and how shallow it stays for dozens of yards 😁. You can do several activities, like swimming with whale sharks, a harmless and majestic species, an unforgettable experience not to be missed for marine wildlife lovers 🥰 (it’s not possible year-round). There are also other islands to discover in the region, like Cozumel and Isla Mujeres.
Opinions about it varied, with some singing its praises and others expressing a few reservations. In this article, of course, I’m going to be pretty subjective about this island and give my point of view, which may differ from others’… Throughout this article, you’ll see our experience, with an honest picture of what we loved and didn’t love as much about this destination. Time to lift the veil on its mysteries.
👉 Planning your trip? Also read our 10 things to know before visiting Mexico.
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
PARKING IN CHIQUILÁ FOR HOLBOX: OUR EXPERIENCE 🅿️
A one-of-a-kind experience awaits travelers in Chiquilá, the small port where the ferries to Holbox Island leave from 😅. As soon as you arrive, you’re surprised by lots of locals waving flags 🏴☠️ on the sidewalks by the road, inviting you to park in their private lot 🤨. It’s quite something to experience… but that’s Mexico too! The owners show you where to park, and some will even ask you to leave them your keys (up to you, but we recommend keeping them).
When we went, we paid 100 pesos a day, and that’s still the most common rate today (count on 100 to 150 pesos a day depending on the lot, a bit more for a covered spot). You usually pay in cash, often when you come back. Go for a gated lot with an attendant.
It’s essential to understand that in Mexico, as a tourist, you’re often seen as a walking wallet: I explain this in my article Tips for visiting the Tulum ruins too!
FERRY TO HOLBOX: SCHEDULE AND PRICES ⛴️
The crossing between Chiquilá and Holbox takes about 25 minutes. Two companies run this service: 9 Hermanos and Holbox Express. They take turns, leaving about every 30 minutes:
- 🕕 Chiquilá → Holbox: from 6 a.m. to about 9:30 p.m. (last departure);
- 🕔 Holbox → Chiquilá: from 5 a.m. to about 8:30 p.m. (last departure).
These times can change depending on the season or the weather: don’t count on squeezing onto the last ferry. We went with 9 Hermanos, and it was great 👌.
💰 Both companies charge the same price. On our trip in October 2021, we paid 220 pesos one way per person. Today, count on about 300 to 330 pesos per trip per adult, a bit less for kids. This price goes up regularly, so check it before you go. You don’t have to buy your tickets in advance: there’s always room, except sometimes during the busiest periods (Christmas, Holy Week).
🌿 The environmental fee: the municipality has introduced an “environmental sanitation fee” (derecho de saneamiento ambiental), which you may be asked to pay on arrival, around 20 to 30 pesos per person. It helps fund trash collection and cleaning the island, which struggles to keep up with the influx of tourists. The rules change often: keep a few pesos handy.
HOW TO GET AROUND HOLBOX: ON FOOT, BY BIKE OR GOLF CART? 🚲
Before heading to Isla Holbox, lots of blog posts had convinced me the island was car-free, offering a peaceful atmosphere where you could get around by bike or golf cart. But that’s not true: there were still a few cars and trucks, though not many, mostly used for deliveries or repair work 🤨.
The real drawback on this island is the constant noise of the golf carts, some of which run on gas, causing unpleasant fumes and adding to the pollution 🤢. It reminded me of a similar experience I’d had on Isla Mujeres. Of course, golf carts are still the ideal way to explore the island, though it can quickly get expensive 💰. The large number of these motorized vehicles takes something away from discovering the island. Luckily, you can also rent bikes, an eco-friendly alternative and a nicer way to get around the island 🏝️. It’s also very doable on foot.
For our part, we got around mostly on foot during our 3 nights, and we never rented a golf cart. That said, with the flooded streets, a golf cart can quickly come in very handy! As a rough guide, count on about 150 to 250 pesos a day for a bike, and much more for a golf cart (often over 1,500 pesos for 24 hours). These prices vary by rental shop and season.
WHAT TO DO IN HOLBOX? 🏝️
Holbox is an island where you mostly come to unwind: there isn’t a ton to do, and that’s part of its charm. Here’s what we did (or didn’t do):
WATCH THE SUNSET 🌅
It’s our best memory of Holbox: a simply incredible sunset, where you can walk out into the sea for dozens of yards with the water still at your ankles, and very warm water at that. A timeless moment you absolutely shouldn’t miss 😍.
STROLL TO PUNTA COCOS
On the west side of the island, Punta Cocos is a pretty beach that’s quieter than the one in the village. It’s very beautiful, but honestly, nothing crazy either. It’s also a well-known spot for seeing bioluminescence on certain nights (ideally with no moon, mainly in summer): we didn’t see it during our stay.
PUNTA MOSQUITO AND ITS SANDBAR
On the east side, Punta Mosquito is known for its huge sandbar and, depending on the season, its pink flamingos. We couldn’t make it there (it’s pretty far on foot), but apparently it’s worth it!
THE 3 ISLANDS TOUR
It’s the most widely offered boat trip on the island. We were disappointed; we tell you all about it in our article Visiting the 3 islands of Holbox by boat.
SWIM WITH WHALE SHARKS 🦈
It’s Holbox’s signature activity, but it’s only possible in season, roughly from June to mid-September (peaking in July and August). So in October, it wasn’t the right time for us. Choose an operator that follows the wildlife-watching rules.
HOLBOX: THE TERRIBLE STATE OF THE ROADS AND THEIR GIANT PUDDLES 🕳️
Holbox Island isn’t built to handle so many tourists, and the sorry state of the roads is glaring proof 😒. Especially in the rainy season, most of the roads are flooded, dotted with huge puddles that can block some streets. The problem isn’t so much the amount of water as how slowly it evaporates 🤔.
It’s a touchy subject when it comes to Holbox, but it can quickly turn into a hassle, making the walk to your accommodation a real obstacle course 😆. When we arrived in Holbox, getting to our place turned out to be extremely complicated. Some streets may even be impassable because of the puddles. On top of that, there’s the nauseating smell of trash left outside for days, some of it even sitting in the water 🤮. You can imagine how unpleasant that can be 😟
ARE THERE MOSQUITOES IN HOLBOX? 🦟
Once again, I want to point out that my experience is personal, but I didn’t find there were as many mosquitoes in Holbox as in other parts of Mexico (except Calakmul, where there are lots of them). Sure, there are a few mosquitoes, but it’s comparable to what you’d find in France 😉(especially in the south, where I’m from). If you’re worried about it, you can bring bug spray to protect yourself, but we didn’t have any and didn’t need it.
INTERNET IN HOLBOX: A CHALLENGE OR NO PROBLEM? 📶
The Wi-Fi and 4G connection is often unstable or even nonexistent. However, Wi-Fi is starting to improve a lot, with many places and accommodations now offering it. If you need to stay connected, I recommend looking into buying a Mexican SIM card, since those are the only ones that work on Holbox Island (we had a French “Free” plan, but no signal or internet). Now that you know, remember to download maps for offline use; it’ll help you find your way without a connection 🙃.
WHEN TO GO TO HOLBOX? ☀️
- ☀️ December to April: the dry season, ideal for the beach and walks.
- 🦈 June to mid-September: whale shark season, but it’s very hot.
- 🌧️ September to November: the rainy (and hurricane) season, with streets often flooded. We were there in October, and we definitely felt it!
- 🌿 Sargassum: Holbox faces the Gulf of Mexico and is much less affected than Tulum or Playa del Carmen. Occasional arrivals are still possible.
MONEY IN HOLBOX: CASH OR CARD? 💵
Many shops and accommodations in Holbox only take cash, and the island’s few ATMs are often empty or charge high fees. Withdraw enough pesos before you take the ferry. To get organized, read our article Where to withdraw money in Mexico.
HOW TO GET TO HOLBOX ⏳
To get to Holbox, you first need to reach the port of Chiquilá, about a 2-hour drive from Cancún:
- By car 🚗: that’s what we did. Visitors aren’t allowed to bring cars onto the island: you’ll have to leave yours in one of the lots in Chiquilá (about 100 to 150 pesos a day), then take the ferry. Don’t forget that Mexico is big: if you want to be free and independent in getting around, a car is a great compromise. Feel free to check out my article on renting a car in Mexico.
- By bus 🚌: there are no buses on the island, but ADO buses connect Cancún (and other cities) to Chiquilá, in about 2 hours from Cancún.
- By shuttle 🚐: private or shared transfers run from Cancún, Playa del Carmen or Tulum to the ferry.
- On the island 🛺: there are no regular taxis, but golf carts act as taxis, which can get expensive fast.
👉 For us, the car was essential during our trip: it let us be 100% independent and combine Holbox with Valladolid and the rest of the road trip.
RENTING A CAR IN MEXICO 🚗
To explore Yucatán and Quintana Roo, we think a rental car is the best option: you’re free to string together cenotes, Mayan sites and beaches at your own pace, without depending on bus schedules or organized tours 🌴.
We did our whole one-month road trip by car, and everything went really well. Here’s the agency we used and recommend, plus an alternative if you’d rather compare 👇
Our rental tip
Renting a car in Mexico
The agency we used, and an alternative to compare.
TouraCancun
Car rental in Mexico
We rented with them for our whole road trip: we recommend them without hesitation!
Our budget€95028 days, insurance included · ~€34/day
- Tested for 1 month
- Pick-up in Cancún
- Our go-to in Mexico
DiscoverCars
Rental comparison site
To compare several rental companies in a single search.
Excellent rating290,000+ Trustpilot reviews
- 1,000+ rental companies compared
- Free cancellation
- 24/7 support
To compare before you choose
Good to know before you rent
- Third-party liability insurance is mandatoryIn Mexico, it's often not included in the price shown online: check before you pay.
- A deposit on a credit cardAn amount is held on your card for the whole rental. Bring a card with a high enough limit.
- Your French driving license is enoughIt's accepted for tourists. The international driving permit is optional: only if you want one.
- Photos and video at pick-upFilm the car from every angle when you collect it, to avoid any dispute when you return it.
- Filling up at the gas stationCheck that the pump meter is at zero before the attendant starts.
- Watch out for “topes”These speed bumps are everywhere, sometimes without a sign: slow down as you enter villages.
TOURS TO DISCOVER HOLBOX 
It’ll depend on you and what you feel like: there are lots of tours in Holbox for every budget 💰. The great thing about Holbox, as with many tourist spots like Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam, Uxmal, Cenote Ik Kil… is that you’ll find everything you need and can choose the tour that suits you.
If you don’t plan ahead, there are still plenty of agencies on the island. If you’re the planning-ahead type (like me), you can absolutely book in advance online: you’ll find lots of tours on GetYourGuide
OUR REVIEW OF HOLBOX 💭
For us, Holbox was the first island we visited in Mexico and also the first stop on our one-month road trip. The seaside and the beaches were absolutely gorgeous and well worth the trip. However, the rest of the island really spoils the place and makes it much less appealing 😕. How dirty the town is, the gas fumes from the vehicles and other things take away from the overall experience.
If we had to do this trip again, we might consider not going back to this island and spending more time in places like Valladolid and Mérida. Everyone has their own experience, but our accommodation was incredible 😍!
How many nights should you plan? We stayed 3 nights, and looking back, 1 to 2 nights max is enough: the island is very chill and there isn’t a ton to do. One night is already enough to enjoy the sunset (a must) and wander around this island that keeps on developing. The beach, though, is truly gorgeous.
👉 What about you? What do you think of Holbox?
FAQ: YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT HOLBOX ❓
These are the questions people often ask before going to Holbox. Feel free to ask yours in the comments, and I’ll add to this FAQ 💬.
You need to reach the port of Chiquilá, about a 2-hour drive from Cancún, by rental car, ADO bus or shuttle. Then take the ferry to Holbox, about a 25-minute crossing. We did it by rental car: it’s easy and convenient for a road trip.
Today, count on about 300 to 330 pesos per adult per trip. In 2021, we paid 220 pesos one way: the price goes up regularly, so check it before you go. 9 Hermanos and Holbox Express charge the same price.
Departures run about every 30 minutes, from 6 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. from Chiquilá, and from 5 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. from Holbox. Times may change depending on the season or the weather.
Usually not: we bought our tickets right at the port. During very busy periods (Christmas, Holy Week), get there a bit early.
Private lots surround the dock, and their owners wave flags by the road to lure you in! We paid 100 pesos a day, in cash, and that’s still the most common rate. Keep your keys and go for a gated lot with an attendant.
Visitors aren’t allowed to bring cars: you get around on foot, by bike or by golf cart. We did everything on foot, but a golf cart can come in handy when the streets are flooded.
The season runs roughly from June to mid-September, peaking in July and August. In October, when we went, the season was over.
Holbox is much less affected than the Caribbean coast (Tulum, Playa del Carmen), since it faces the Gulf of Mexico. Occasional arrivals are still possible.
Yes, but very few, often empty and with fees. Many shops only take cash: withdraw enough pesos before you take the ferry.
We stayed 3 nights, but 1 to 2 nights is plenty. One night is already enough to enjoy the sunset, the island’s real highlight.
For its gorgeous beach and its sunsets, yes. But you have to accept often-flooded streets and an island struggling to keep up with the influx of tourists. For us, it’s a one- or two-night stop, no more.
WHERE TO STAY IN MEXICO 🏨
During our one-month road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽, we stayed in 8 different towns, alternating between Airbnbs and hotels. And we were always very happy with where we stayed 😇.
We deliberately avoided “All Inclusive” packages. It’s not our idea of travel: we’d rather be in the heart of towns and villages, eat local and discover the country at our own pace 🌮.
OUR TIPS FOR CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLACE TO STAY
- 📅 Book ahead in high season: the best places go fast and prices climb.
- 🚗 Private or secure parking if you’re traveling with a rental car. You’ll see, it’s not always available, but depending on the town it can be really worth having.
- ❄️ Air conditioning: essential in Yucatán and Quintana Roo, where it’s hot all year round.
- 🏊 A pool: up to you whether you want one at some of your stays, because it can quickly push the price up.
- 📍 A place close to the center: so you can do everything on foot in the evening. That said, if you like places outside town and you have the car, nothing forces you to stay near the center
- ✅ Free cancellation, to keep your itinerary flexible.
AIRBNB OR HOTEL IN MEXICO?
Both have their advantages. An Airbnb is ideal for more space, a kitchen and living like a local. A hotel is more convenient for one or two nights passing through, with a reception desk and often breakfast included. As for us, we liked both. It all depends on what you want, whether you’re with family, solo or as a couple, and how you like to travel.
HOW MUCH DOES ACCOMMODATION COST IN MEXICO?
There’s something for every taste and every budget. We paid between €40 and €100 a night for two. To be completely transparent with you: €1,800 for 29 nights, or about €62 a night on average (that was in 2021, prices may have changed since).
👇 Here are the 8 places where we slept during our road trip, with our review of each one.
Tested during our road trip
Our 8 places to stay in Mexico
AirbnbHotel
-
AirbnbHolbox
An incredible room, with the pool right next door to cool off. Just perfect!
- Room
- Pool right next door
- Incredible room
- Hotel
Valladolid
A stunning setting and a super spacious room, ideal for catching your breath between two cenotes.
- Very spacious room
- Pool
- On-site massages
- Airbnb
Mérida
A whole house just for us, with a small pool to relax.
- Whole house
- Small pool
- A bit out of the way
- Hotel
Bacalar
A gorgeous place right in the town center, with a superb pool.
- Hotel
- Superb pool
- Town center, far from the lagoon
- Airbnb
Tulum
A whole place with a pool, but very far out: you'll need the car.
- Whole place
- Pool
- Far out, car essential
- Airbnb
Cozumel
A clean, well-located studio, so you can do everything on foot from the town center.
- Studio
- Clean and well designed
- Close to the center
- Hotel
Isla Mujeres
A beautiful seafront hotel with a magnificent pool.
- Hotel
- Magnificent pool
- Seafront, a bit out of the way
- Hotel
Cancún
Right next to the airport: perfect for the first or last night of the trip.
- Hotel
- Close to the airport
- Ideal for the 1st or last night
MY MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GEAR 🧳
It’s a question that comes up a lot when preparing a trip “What should I bring?” That’s why you’ll find below some essential travel accessories to set off on vacation with peace of mind (your documents kept safe) 🛡️ . Planning ahead and getting these items in advance helps you save money and avoid paying for some of them on the spot, where they’ll cost you much more 💸 These are the accessories we took to Mexico and still use for every destination we travel to 👇.
Our road trip checklist
What to pack for Mexico?
Most of these items came with us throughout our 30-day road trip.
0 / 12 in my suitcase · check what you already have
- Essential
ElectronicsUniversal travel adapter
In Mexico, outlets are the American type: French chargers won't fit.
- Essential
ElectronicsPower bank
Long days between ruins and cenotes: your phone lasts until evening.
- Essential
Health & protectionBiodegradable sunscreen
Mineral and biodegradable, kinder to cenotes and reefs.
- Essential
Health & protectionMosquito repellent
Mosquitoes are everywhere, especially in the evening and near the jungle.
- Essential
Cenotes & beachWaterproof phone pouch
To film in cenotes and at the beach without any risk.
- Recommended
Health & protectionFilter water bottle
Tap water isn't drinkable in Mexico: filter it and avoid plastic.
- Recommended
Health & protectionTravel first-aid kit
Band-aids, painkillers, anti-diarrhea meds: enough to handle small issues.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWaterproof bag
Papers and keys kept dry on boats, at the beach or by the cenotes.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWater shoes
For slippery cenote steps and rocky seabeds.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachMicrofiber towel
Light and quick-drying: perfect for swim after swim.
- Bonus
Travel & securityTSA lock
To lock your suitcase on the plane, with no risk of it being broken at security.
- Bonus
Travel & securityAirTag
To track your suitcase if your luggage is delayed or lost.
OUR YOUTUBE VIDEOS IN MEXICO
During our 30-day road trip in Mexico 
, we filmed everything! From Holbox to Cancún, by way of Valladolid, Mérida, Bacalar, Tulum, Cozumel and Isla Mujeres, we take you along with us step by step in our vlogs.
You’ll discover the cenotes we swam in, the Mayan sites we explored, the beaches that made us dream, our places to stay, our favorite spots to eat… and above all our honest take on each place: what amazed us, and what disappointed us a little 
.
If you’re planning your trip, or simply dreaming of getting away, these videos will give you a real glimpse of Mexico, far from the tourist brochures.
Our road trip on video
Our YouTube videos in Mexico
Now watching: Episode 1 · Discovering Mexico & Holbox
21 minEpisode 1Discovering Mexico & Holbox- 17 minEpisode 2Cenotes & Mayan cities
- 9 minEpisode 3Mérida, Uxmal, Cuzamá & the bats
- 13 minEpisode 4Bacalar, a hidden paradise
- 12 minEpisode 5Tulum, Coba, Sian Ka'an & Cenote Azul
- 12 minEpisode 6Cozumel, diving & snorkeling
- 17 minEpisode 7Isla Mujeres, jet skiing & the end of the road trip
21 min
17 min
9 min
13 min
12 min
12 min
17 minTHANKS FOR YOUR FEEDBACK
Thanks for reading this article all the way to the end 🙏! We hope it helps you plan your trip.
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