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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 🇲🇽
Los Rápidos de Bacalar, or “the rapids,” is an incredible place, with scenery you don’t see everywhere. About fifteen minutes from Bacalar, it’s a freshwater river with a fairly strong current that lets you drift along in a jungle setting 🌳. The water is crystal clear, with colors that change with the weather and the season.
During our visit in October 2021, the water was green and incredibly clear: it was stunning 😍. Lovely fresh water, as is often the case in Mexico. During our 5 nights in Bacalar, we also sailed on the lagoon by sailboat, swam to the Bacalar cenotes and drove all the way to the Mayan city of Calakmul.
👉 Planning your trip? Also read our 10 things to know before visiting Mexico.
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
OUR DAY AT LOS RÁPIDOS DE BACALAR 🌮
OUR ARRIVAL AT LOS RÁPIDOS (OCTOBER 2021)
To get in, you have to pay an entrance fee, as is often the case in Mexico… The site is run by private owners, even though it deserves to be better protected 😶. There’s a large parking lot, and as during our whole stay, there were very few people during our visit to Los Rápidos de Bacalar. We paid 150 pesos per person (about €6.50). A restaurant sits right next to the site, with slightly higher prices.
We were very lucky: the weather changed a lot that day, which let us enjoy the different shades of the water. A cozy atmosphere where you just know the experience is going to be great.
INTO THE RAPIDS
Now it’s time to take the boardwalk and head up toward the Bacalar lagoon. You can do it on foot or by kayak (paid). We did everything on foot, to experience the feeling. Be careful where you step: the site needs to stay protected so that everyone can discover Los Rápidos de Bacalar.
When you reach the start of the rapids, it’s time to put on your life jacket and let yourself drift, enjoying the view and the different colors of the lagoon. If you’re nervous, you can perfectly well start from the beginning of the boardwalk without heading up the lagoon 😉.
You can stay as long as you like, and when there are very few people, it’s even better! At the end, there are hammocks to rest and enjoy this incredible landscape.
A WELL-EARNED TREAT
By now you know us pretty well through our articles: we love food. I’ll be honest with you, Mexican food is exceptional, but I still have a soft spot for French cuisine. Anyway, we took the chance to eat at Los Rápidos de Bacalar. A mojito, a Mexican lemonade (we’ve never managed to recreate it back in France) and a chicken fajita with fries. Enjoying being 10,000 km from home and loving discovering new places like this one!
🌿 Good to know: a jetty has been built along the side of the lagoon. It lets you get in and out of the water without trampling the stromatolites, living rock formations that are among the oldest life forms on Earth. Signs forbid walking or sitting on them and entering the mangrove: even if it isn’t always enforced, please respect these rules 🙏.
HOW TO GET TO LOS RÁPIDOS DE BACALAR ⏳
Los Rápidos is about 13 km (8 miles) south of Bacalar, via Highway 307, with the last few kilometers on a dirt track. To get there:
- By car 🚗: allow about 15 minutes from Bacalar. We were staying in Bacalar with our rental car. Remember that Mexico is big: if you want to be free and independent in your travels, a car is a great compromise. Feel free to check out my article on renting a car in Mexico.
- By taxi 🚕: expect about 170 to 250 pesos for the ride from Bacalar, and the staff can call one for the way back.
- By colectivo 🚐: cheaper, but it drops you on the main road, about 2 km on foot from the entrance.
- By bike 🚲: it’s possible, but you have to ride on the federal highway, so be careful.
👉 For us, the car was essential during our trip: it made us 100% independent and let us visit Los Rápidos and other places like Calakmul without relying on public transport.
RENTING A CAR IN MEXICO 🚗
To explore Yucatán and Quintana Roo, we think a rental car is the best option: you’re free to string together cenotes, Mayan sites and beaches at your own pace, without depending on bus schedules or organized tours 🌴.
We did our whole one-month road trip by car, and everything went really well. Here’s the agency we used and recommend, plus an alternative if you’d rather compare 👇
Our rental tip
Renting a car in Mexico
The agency we used, and an alternative to compare.
TouraCancun
Car rental in Mexico
We rented with them for our whole road trip: we recommend them without hesitation!
Our budget€95028 days, insurance included · ~€34/day
- Tested for 1 month
- Pick-up in Cancún
- Our go-to in Mexico
DiscoverCars
Rental comparison site
To compare several rental companies in a single search.
Excellent rating290,000+ Trustpilot reviews
- 1,000+ rental companies compared
- Free cancellation
- 24/7 support
To compare before you choose
Good to know before you rent
- Third-party liability insurance is mandatoryIn Mexico, it's often not included in the price shown online: check before you pay.
- A deposit on a credit cardAn amount is held on your card for the whole rental. Bring a card with a high enough limit.
- Your French driving license is enoughIt's accepted for tourists. The international driving permit is optional: only if you want one.
- Photos and video at pick-upFilm the car from every angle when you collect it, to avoid any dispute when you return it.
- Filling up at the gas stationCheck that the pump meter is at zero before the attendant starts.
- Watch out for “topes”These speed bumps are everywhere, sometimes without a sign: slow down as you enter villages.
LOS RÁPIDOS DE BACALAR ENTRANCE FEE AND OPENING HOURS ⏰
▶️ The site is open every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Arrive at opening time to enjoy the rapids before the groups.
💰 The price has gone up a lot: when we were planning our trip, entry was 50 pesos; in October 2021, we paid 150 pesos per person. Today, expect around 200 pesos per adult (150 pesos for children), life jacket included. It’s still affordable for Europeans, but the price may keep changing.
💵 Entry is paid in cash, in pesos. To get organized, read our article Where to withdraw money in Mexico.
KAYAK, PADDLEBOARD AND LOCKER RENTAL
- 🛶 Kayak: about 200 pesos an hour for a single and 400 pesos for a double (paddleboards also available). We didn’t take one, we did everything on foot.
- 🔒 Locker: about 50 pesos, with a small deposit returned when you hand back the key. We took one to keep our things safe.
OUR PRACTICAL TIPS BEFORE VISITING LOS RÁPIDOS 🥰
As always in our articles, here are a few tips for visiting Los Rápidos de Bacalar:
- A restaurant on site 🍽️: outside food and drinks are not allowed.
- Parking was free when we visited 🅿️; it now costs money (about 50 pesos).
- A rather touristy outing.
- Bring water shoes if you don’t want sore feet.
- The life jacket is included in the price but not mandatory: it’s recommended if you’re not comfortable, because the current gets stronger after the restaurant.
- 🧴 Sunscreen: regular sunscreens and repellents are banned in the water. Ideally, swim without sunscreen in a UV rash guard; otherwise, use a biodegradable sunscreen applied well before swimming.
- Don’t walk on the stromatolites, and help protect this place 🙏.
- No need to book online.
WHEN TO VISIT LOS RÁPIDOS? SEASON AND WATER COLOR ☀️
Honestly, the weather in Mexico is amazing to begin with, and you can enjoy Los Rápidos all year round ☀️. For the best chance of really blue water, the safest period is December to February, during the dry season.
During the rainy season, the lagoon can change color and turn green, or even brown after heavy rain. When we visited in October, the water was green and very clear: honestly stunning!
⏰ As for timing, arrive at 10 a.m., when it opens, to enjoy the rapids before the groups arrive.
DISCOVER BACALAR ON A TOUR
No need to book online to visit Los Rápidos de Bacalar, but if you want to take a boat tour of the lagoon of seven colors, it’s highly recommended 😉! These boat or sailboat trips are in high demand, so tours fill up quickly. If you already have your dream tour in mind, book fast to be sure of getting a spot 👌. If you don’t have any ideas yet (there’s plenty of choice) 👇
OUR REVIEW OF THIS UNIQUE PLACE IN BACALAR 💭
If you read all my articles, I know I repeat myself, but this place is a must if you’re in Bacalar. We spent a really lovely half-day there with weather worthy of Mexico ☀️! When we travel, this is the kind of place we love to discover, rather than staying in an all-inclusive hotel.
Los Rápidos de Bacalar is one of a kind. Right next door, you also have the Bacalar lagoon, an absolute must with its cenotes, and a sailboat tour to discover the lagoon of seven colors. In short, if you’re still on the fence, plan a stop in Bacalar to visit these places 👊.
👉 What about you? What do you think of Los Rápidos de Bacalar?
FAQ: YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT LOS RÁPIDOS DE BACALAR ❓
These are the questions people often ask before visiting Los Rápidos. Feel free to ask yours in the comments, and I’ll add them to this FAQ 💬.
Today, expect about 200 pesos per adult and 150 pesos for children, life jacket included. In October 2021, we paid 150 pesos per person. The price changes regularly.
No, entry is paid in cash, in pesos. Withdraw money in Bacalar before you come.
The site is open every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Arrive at opening time to enjoy the rapids before the groups.
It’s included in the entrance fee, but not mandatory. We recommend it if you’re not comfortable in the water, because the current gets stronger after the restaurant.
Regular sunscreens and repellents are banned in the water to protect the lagoon and its stromatolites. The best option is to swim without sunscreen in a UV rash guard.
Yes, expect about 200 pesos an hour for a single and 400 pesos for a double, prices may vary. As for us, we did everything on foot.
The site is about 13 km (8 miles) south of Bacalar. A taxi costs about 170 to 250 pesos each way; the colectivo is cheaper but drops you about 2 km on foot from the entrance.
It was when we visited, but it now costs around 50 pesos. Bring some change.
December to February, during the dry season. In the rainy season, the water can turn green or brown: in October, we saw it green and very clear, and it was stunning.
No, outside food and drinks are not allowed. The on-site restaurant serves Mexican dishes and cocktails: we had a chicken fajita and a mojito there.
WHERE TO STAY IN MEXICO 🏨
During our one-month road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽, we stayed in 8 different towns, alternating between Airbnbs and hotels. And we were always very happy with where we stayed 😇.
We deliberately avoided “All Inclusive” packages. It’s not our idea of travel: we’d rather be in the heart of towns and villages, eat local and discover the country at our own pace 🌮.
OUR TIPS FOR CHOOSING THE RIGHT PLACE TO STAY
- 📅 Book ahead in high season: the best places go fast and prices climb.
- 🚗 Private or secure parking if you’re traveling with a rental car. You’ll see, it’s not always available, but depending on the town it can be really worth having.
- ❄️ Air conditioning: essential in Yucatán and Quintana Roo, where it’s hot all year round.
- 🏊 A pool: up to you whether you want one at some of your stays, because it can quickly push the price up.
- 📍 A place close to the center: so you can do everything on foot in the evening. That said, if you like places outside town and you have the car, nothing forces you to stay near the center
- ✅ Free cancellation, to keep your itinerary flexible.
AIRBNB OR HOTEL IN MEXICO?
Both have their advantages. An Airbnb is ideal for more space, a kitchen and living like a local. A hotel is more convenient for one or two nights passing through, with a reception desk and often breakfast included. As for us, we liked both. It all depends on what you want, whether you’re with family, solo or as a couple, and how you like to travel.
HOW MUCH DOES ACCOMMODATION COST IN MEXICO?
There’s something for every taste and every budget. We paid between €40 and €100 a night for two. To be completely transparent with you: €1,800 for 29 nights, or about €62 a night on average (that was in 2021, prices may have changed since).
👇 Here are the 8 places where we slept during our road trip, with our review of each one.
Tested during our road trip
Our 8 places to stay in Mexico
AirbnbHotel
-
AirbnbHolbox
An incredible room, with the pool right next door to cool off. Just perfect!
- Room
- Pool right next door
- Incredible room
- Hotel
Valladolid
A stunning setting and a super spacious room, ideal for catching your breath between two cenotes.
- Very spacious room
- Pool
- On-site massages
- Airbnb
Mérida
A whole house just for us, with a small pool to relax.
- Whole house
- Small pool
- A bit out of the way
- Hotel
Bacalar
A gorgeous place right in the town center, with a superb pool.
- Hotel
- Superb pool
- Town center, far from the lagoon
- Airbnb
Tulum
A whole place with a pool, but very far out: you'll need the car.
- Whole place
- Pool
- Far out, car essential
- Airbnb
Cozumel
A clean, well-located studio, so you can do everything on foot from the town center.
- Studio
- Clean and well designed
- Close to the center
- Hotel
Isla Mujeres
A beautiful seafront hotel with a magnificent pool.
- Hotel
- Magnificent pool
- Seafront, a bit out of the way
- Hotel
Cancún
Right next to the airport: perfect for the first or last night of the trip.
- Hotel
- Close to the airport
- Ideal for the 1st or last night
MY MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GEAR 🧳
It’s a question that comes up a lot when preparing a trip “What should I bring?” That’s why you’ll find below some essential travel accessories to set off on vacation with peace of mind (your documents kept safe) 🛡️ . Planning ahead and getting these items in advance helps you save money and avoid paying for some of them on the spot, where they’ll cost you much more 💸 These are the accessories we took to Mexico and still use for every destination we travel to 👇.
Our road trip checklist
What to pack for Mexico?
Most of these items came with us throughout our 30-day road trip.
0 / 12 in my suitcase · check what you already have
- Essential
ElectronicsUniversal travel adapter
In Mexico, outlets are the American type: French chargers won't fit.
- Essential
ElectronicsPower bank
Long days between ruins and cenotes: your phone lasts until evening.
- Essential
Health & protectionBiodegradable sunscreen
Mineral and biodegradable, kinder to cenotes and reefs.
- Essential
Health & protectionMosquito repellent
Mosquitoes are everywhere, especially in the evening and near the jungle.
- Essential
Cenotes & beachWaterproof phone pouch
To film in cenotes and at the beach without any risk.
- Recommended
Health & protectionFilter water bottle
Tap water isn't drinkable in Mexico: filter it and avoid plastic.
- Recommended
Health & protectionTravel first-aid kit
Band-aids, painkillers, anti-diarrhea meds: enough to handle small issues.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWaterproof bag
Papers and keys kept dry on boats, at the beach or by the cenotes.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachWater shoes
For slippery cenote steps and rocky seabeds.
- Recommended
Cenotes & beachMicrofiber towel
Light and quick-drying: perfect for swim after swim.
- Bonus
Travel & securityTSA lock
To lock your suitcase on the plane, with no risk of it being broken at security.
- Bonus
Travel & securityAirTag
To track your suitcase if your luggage is delayed or lost.
OUR YOUTUBE VIDEOS IN MEXICO 
During our 30-day road trip in Mexico 
, we filmed everything! From Holbox to Cancún, by way of Valladolid, Mérida, Bacalar, Tulum, Cozumel and Isla Mujeres, we take you along with us step by step in our vlogs.
You’ll discover the cenotes we swam in, the Mayan sites we explored, the beaches that made us dream, our places to stay, our favorite spots to eat… and above all our honest take on each place: what amazed us, and what disappointed us a little 
.
If you’re planning your trip, or simply dreaming of getting away, these videos will give you a real glimpse of Mexico, far from the tourist brochures.
Our road trip on video
Our YouTube videos in Mexico
Now watching: Episode 1 · Discovering Mexico & Holbox
21 minEpisode 1Discovering Mexico & Holbox- 17 minEpisode 2Cenotes & Mayan cities
- 9 minEpisode 3Mérida, Uxmal, Cuzamá & the bats
- 13 minEpisode 4Bacalar, a hidden paradise
- 12 minEpisode 5Tulum, Coba, Sian Ka'an & Cenote Azul
- 12 minEpisode 6Cozumel, diving & snorkeling
- 17 minEpisode 7Isla Mujeres, jet skiing & the end of the road trip
21 min
17 min
9 min
13 min
12 min
12 min
17 minTHANKS FOR YOUR FEEDBACK
Thanks for reading this article all the way to the end 🙏! We hope it helps you plan your trip.
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