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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 💥
If we could keep only one stop from our road trip in Mexico, Bacalar would be at the very top of the list 💙. Adeline and I spent 5 nights there, and we’d happily have stayed longer.
Bacalar is a quiet little village on the shores of a huge freshwater lagoon, whose colors range from turquoise to midnight blue depending on the depth. No big hotels or crowds like in Tulum: you come here to swim, sail, stroll by the water and get lost in the cenotes.
In this article, we share what to do in Bacalar based on what we actually experienced: the cenotes (including one we swam to 🏊), the sailboat trip, Los Rápidos, a balneario where we had the place to ourselves, the restaurants we tried, our hotel and all the practical info to plan your stay.
WHERE IS BACALAR AND WHAT IS IT? 📍
Bacalar is in the far south of the Yucatán Peninsula, in the state of Quintana Roo, about forty minutes from Chetumal and the border with Belize. It’s a Pueblo Mágico, a label Mexico gives to its most authentic villages.
The star, of course, is the Bacalar lagoon, nicknamed the “lagoon of 7 colors”. It stretches for dozens of kilometers, and its white sand bottom, very deep cenotes and sunlight create an incredible gradient of blues and greens. In October, we found it rather green, with magnificent blue reflections.
What fewer people know is that the lagoon is home to stromatolites: mineral formations built by microorganisms, among the oldest traces of life on Earth. They’re very fragile, which is why you should never walk or lean on them.
👉 If you want to know everything about the lagoon’s colors and our boat trip, we’ve written a full article on the Bacalar lagoon by sailboat.
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
WHAT TO DO IN BACALAR: OUR MUST-DOS 💙
SWIM TO CENOTE ESMERALDA
It’s our best memory of Bacalar 😍. Usually, you discover Cenote Esmeralda by boat, on a lagoon tour. We did it differently: we went through the dock of the Casa Sol y Luna hotel, which opens right onto the lagoon, and swam there.
There we were, in our life jackets, in the middle of the lagoon, out of our depth, not quite sure where to go… It was very unusual, but so beautiful. It was about 10 a.m., we had the place to ourselves, the water was incredible and so were the photos. In the center, the cenote plunges about 70 m deep: the color changes suddenly beneath your feet.
- 💰 Our experience in 2021: 100 pesos (€5) to access the hotel dock.
- 🏊 Swim time: 5 to 10 min.
- 🦺 Our tip: take a life jacket, even if you’re a good swimmer. You can’t touch the bottom, and the distance is deceptive.
COCALITOS, CENOTE AZUL AND CENOTE NEGRO
Around Bacalar, we saw the lagoon’s 4 cenotes. Our favorite is Cocalitos: water close to 30°C, hammocks and swings planted in the water, and you can stand for a long way out. It’s the busiest, but it’s still very pleasant.
Cenote Azul, about ten minutes from the center, is a big sinkhole of dark water by the road to Chetumal. There was no one there when we went. Nice, but not a must-see for us. As for Cenote Negro (also called La Bruja), we saw it from the sailboat: the contrast between turquoise and midnight blue is striking.
- 💰 Our experience in 2021: 50 pesos per person at Cocalitos (about 100 pesos today), 25 pesos at Cenote Azul.
- ⏱️ How long: you can do all the lagoon’s cenotes in one day.
👉 All the details (access, prices, hours) are in our article the cenotes of Bacalar, and our other favorites in the region are in the most beautiful cenotes in Mexico we’ve tried.
THE LAGOON BY SAILBOAT
We spent an afternoon on a sailboat with The Sailing Colibri and Captain Miguel, in a small group of 6. On the program: sailing over Cenote Negro, a swim in the middle of the lagoon (you can stand, it’s crazy!), a fruit break, then the Pirates’ Channel, before heading back at sunset with guacamole and chips 🌅.
- 💰 Our experience in 2021: 850 pesos (€42) per person. Today, expect about 950 pesos for 4 hours.
- ⛵ Why a sailboat: no engine noise, a small group and the perfect pace to enjoy the colors.
It was one of our best afternoons in Mexico. 👉 We tell you all about it in Bacalar, the lagoon of 7 colors by sailboat.
LOS RÁPIDOS: LET THE CURRENT CARRY YOU
About fifteen minutes south of Bacalar, Los Rápidos is a narrow passage where the lagoon water flows with a current. You walk up along the boardwalk, put on a life jacket and let yourself drift in clear green water. Then we ended up in the hammocks with a fajita and a mojito 🍹.
It has to be said: Los Rápidos is incredible. The place is a bit touristy, but we almost had it to ourselves.
- 💰 Our experience in 2021: 150 pesos per person (about 200 pesos today, life jacket included).
- ⏱️ How long: half a day.
- 🍽️ Good to know: outside food isn’t allowed, but there’s a restaurant on site.
👉 Our full article: visiting Los Rápidos de Bacalar.
A DAY AT BALNEARIO SAC-HA
Balnearios are swimming areas set up on the shores of the lagoon: docks, shady spots, sometimes a small restaurant. We spent some time at Balneario Sac-Ha, and it was really lovely: once again, there was no one else but us.
If you’re looking for somewhere more central, the El Aserradero municipal balneario is a few minutes’ walk from the center, and the Balneario Ejidal Mágico is the best-known (and liveliest) in Bacalar. We didn’t try them.
THE LAGOON FRONT AND FORT SAN FELIPE
We strolled along the lagoon front several times and also walked past Fort San Felipe, built by the Spanish to protect the village from pirates. We only saw it from the outside, but it houses a small museum on the history of Bacalar and piracy.
WHAT TO DO AROUND BACALAR? 🗺️
CALAKMUL, THE MAYAN SITE LOST IN THE JUNGLE
From Bacalar, we did the most intense day of the trip: Calakmul, about 3.5 hours’ drive each way, including some sixty kilometers of small road through the jungle. Arriving around 9:30 a.m., we almost had the site to ourselves. Howler monkeys, huge pyramids and a very tough climb up Structure II!
- 💰 Our experience in 2021: about 240 pesos (€10) per person, entry tolls and ticket included.
- ⏱️ On site: 3 to 4 hours.
- 🕐 Good to know: Calakmul is in the state of Campeche, which is one hour behind Bacalar.
For us, it may be the most beautiful Mayan site of the trip, and the 7-hour round trip is really worth it. We compare it with the other Mayan sites we visited. 👉 All our tips: visiting the Mayan site of Calakmul.
THE OTHER MAYAN SITES NEARBY
Around Bacalar, there are other, closer Mayan sites, like Chacchoben or Kohunlich. We didn’t visit them, so we can’t tell you about them, but they can be a good alternative if Calakmul seems too far.
WHERE TO STAY IN BACALAR? 🏡
We stayed 5 nights at Casa Chukum, a boutique hotel in the center, a few minutes’ walk from the lagoon. The room was perfect, the hotel very beautiful and the pool magnificent: ideal for cooling off after Calakmul.
- 💰 Our experience in 2021: about €60 to €70 a night for 2.
- ✅ What we loved: the room, the peace and quiet, the pool and the location for doing everything on foot in the evening.
- 📍 Good to know: the hotel isn’t on the water, but the lagoon is a few minutes’ walk away.
WHERE TO EAT IN BACALAR? 🍽️
We tried 4 restaurants in Bacalar, and we recommend them all, each in its own way:
- 🌮 Mr. Taco: our best deal! Really fun, no frills, with incredible value for money. You eat your fill for very little. Remember to bring cash.
- 🌴 La Playita: a restaurant on the shores of the lagoon, where we ate very well. A bit more expensive than the others.
- 🍍 La Piña: very nice, in a beautiful setting.
- 🍹 La Cabañita Grill & Cantina: another place we tried and liked, for grilled food.
PRACTICAL INFO: THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE GOING TO BACALAR 🧳
HOW TO GET TO BACALAR?
- 🚗 By car is the most practical: allow about 4.5 hours from Cancún, 2 hours 45 minutes from Tulum, and nearly 5 hours from Mérida (it was the longest drive of our road trip). That’s how we got there, with our rental car booked through TouraCancun.
- 🚆 By Tren Maya: Bacalar has its own station, connected to Cancún airport among others (about 4.5 hours). Note that the station is outside the village: you’ll need a taxi or colectivo to get to the center.
- 🚌 By ADO bus: from Cancún, Playa del Carmen or Tulum; allow about 5.5 hours from Cancún.
👉 For the car, all our tips for renting a car in Mexico without getting scammed.
HOW TO GET AROUND BACALAR?
The center is easy to explore on foot. However, for Cenote Azul, Los Rápidos, the balnearios and Calakmul, a car makes all the difference. Otherwise, there are taxis and colectivos, but it’s much less practical.
⚠️ Watch out at the gas station: Bacalar is where we got scammed. We handed over two 500-peso bills for a 700 to 800-peso fill-up, and the attendant discreetly swapped a 500 for a 50 to ask us for more. Check that the pump is at zero, say your bills out loud and count your change.
HOW MANY DAYS TO STAY IN BACALAR?
We stayed 5 nights, Calakmul included, and could have stayed even longer. To enjoy Bacalar without rushing, plan at least 3 days: a cenote day, an afternoon on a sailboat and half a day at Los Rápidos. Add a day if you want to do Calakmul. 👉 And to fit Bacalar into a longer trip, here’s our one-month Yucatán itinerary.
WHEN TO GO TO BACALAR?
The dry season, from November to April, is the sunniest time. We went in October, at the end of the rainy season: it was very hot and humid, but we had very little rain and almost no one at the sites. Keep in mind that it’s still hurricane season, and check the weather before you go.
THINGS TO KNOW
- 🚤 On Wednesdays, Bacalar has introduced a no-boating day to let the lagoon breathe: check before booking a boat trip on that day.
- 🪸 Don’t touch the stromatolites or walk on them, especially at Cocalitos.
- 🧴 Use “reef safe” sunscreen (free of products harmful to the water), or better yet, a UV-protection T-shirt.
- 💵 Bring cash: cenotes, balnearios, small restaurants and parking lots often work in cash. 👉 Our tips for withdrawing money in Mexico.
- 🦟 Don’t forget bug spray, especially in the late afternoon.
- 🕐 Bacalar is in Quintana Roo, in the same time zone as Cancún and Tulum.
👉 And for everything else, our 10 things to know before visiting Mexico.
OUR REVIEW OF BACALAR 💭
Bacalar was our second favorite stop of the trip, along with Valladolid ❤️. We loved the village’s pace, the lagoon we never tired of looking at, and the variety of activities: swimming to a cenote, sailing, drifting with the current, then ending the day with super cheap tacos.
The only real downside of our stay was the gas station scam. Otherwise, Bacalar is the perfect stop to catch your breath in the middle of a road trip in Mexico, far from the bustle of the Riviera Maya. Our advice: don’t skip it, and stay at least 3 days.
👉 What about you? Is Bacalar part of your itinerary? Are you more of a sailboat, cenote or Los Rápidos person? Tell us in the comments 💬!
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
FAQ: YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT BACALAR ❓
The must-dos: the lagoon’s cenotes (Esmeralda, Cocalitos, Azul and Negro), a sailboat trip, Los Rápidos, a day at a balneario and a stroll along the lagoon front. If you have an extra day, the Mayan site of Calakmul is really worth the detour.
Plan at least 3 days to enjoy the lagoon without rushing, and 4 to 5 days if you want to add Calakmul. We stayed 5 nights and would happily have stayed longer.
Because the water changes color depending on the depth, the white sand bottom, the cenotes and the light: it goes from light turquoise to midnight blue in just a few meters. The colors also vary with the season and the weather.
Yes! From the balnearios, the hotel docks, at Cocalitos or at Los Rápidos. Just remember to use “reef safe” sunscreen and don’t walk on the stromatolites.
Yes, that’s what we did, from the dock of the Casa Sol y Luna hotel (100 pesos in 2021). Allow 5 to 10 minutes of swimming, out of your depth: a life jacket is strongly recommended.
By car, allow about 4.5 hours from Cancún and 2 hours 45 minutes from Tulum. There’s also the Tren Maya (station outside the village) and ADO buses.
Not for the center, which you can explore on foot. But for the outlying cenotes, Los Rápidos, the balnearios and Calakmul, a car is by far the most practical. 👉 Renting a car in Mexico without getting scammed.
In the center, to do everything on foot, or on the shores of the lagoon to enjoy a private dock. We loved Casa Chukum, in the center, with a beautiful pool.
From November to April for the dry season. In October, it was very hot, with very little rain and almost no one at the sites.
Yes, that’s what we did, in one day: about 3.5 hours’ drive each way. Leave early and bring food and water; there’s nothing on site.
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip
THE MAP OF OUR MEXICO ROAD TRIP 🗺️
To help you plan your itinerary, we’ve gathered every place from our 30-day road trip in Mexico 🇲🇽 on an interactive map: cenotes, Mayan sites, beaches and stopover towns, from Yucatán to Quintana Roo. Click on each pin to discover the place in detail 📍. And to keep it handy during your trip, open it in Google Maps: you’ll find it easily on your phone 📱.
Our itinerary
Our trip to Mexico
1 month8 stops2 states: Yucatán & Quintana RooCar + ferry to the islands
The stops, in order
- 1
Cancún
1 night
Arrival by plane, then last night before the flight home
- 2
Holbox
3 nights
Beaches, sunsets and a timeless vibe
- 3
Valladolid
5 nights
Suytun, Oxman, Ik Kil, Chichén Itzá, Ek Balam
- 4
Mérida
3 nights
Uxmal and the 3 cenotes of Cuzamá
- 5
Bacalar
5 nights
The lagoon of seven colors and its cenotes
- 6
Tulum
4 nights
Ruins, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Cenote Azul and Calavera
- 7
Cozumel
4 nights
Scuba diving and snorkeling
- 8
Isla Mujeres
3 nights
Jet skiing, beaches and the end of the road trip