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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 💥
If there’s one calanque we never get tired of going back to, it’s this one 😍. The En-Vau Calanque is the most iconic in Calanques National Park, between Marseille and Cassis: turquoise water squeezed between two huge white cliffs, a small beach at the end, and no road to get there. Here, you have to earn it, on foot, by boat or… from the sky 🚁.
From Avignon, it’s our favorite “sea and hiking” day trip: we go back almost every year, in the middle of summer as well as early or late in the season, with Adeline, with the tribe, and even with coworkers. Needless to say, we’re starting to know the trail, its traps and its best tricks pretty well 😅.
In this article, we explain how to get to the En-Vau Calanque: where to park, the trails and hiking times, the famous scramble section, whether you need to book, summer access rules, swimming, and the other ways to discover it (boat, kayak, helicopter). Basically, everything we wish we’d known before our first time.
👉 Want to stay nearby to get an early start? Compare places to stay in Cassis, the best base camp for the calanques.
WHERE IS THE EN-VAU CALANQUE? 📍
The En-Vau Calanque is in the Bouches-du-Rhône, in the town of Cassis, west of the harbor. It’s part of the calanques massif along with Port-Miou, Port-Pin and En-Vau, the three “Cassis” calanques, as opposed to the Marseille ones (Sugiton, Morgiou, Sormiou…).
It’s a narrow, deep calanque: a long inlet of sea cutting into the land, lined with some of the highest limestone cliffs in the massif, popular with climbers. At the far end, there’s a small pebble and sand beach. This Mediterranean fjord setting is what makes it the postcard image of Calanques National Park, created in 2012.
👉 For the map, news and regulations, the go-to website is the Calanques National Park‘s.
HOW TO GET TO THE EN-VAU CALANQUE? 🚗
First thing to know: no road goes down to En-Vau. Wherever you start from, the last part is on foot (or by boat). So the real question is: where do you leave the car? Here are the three options, from the easiest to the most athletic.
WHERE TO PARK FOR THE EN-VAU CALANQUE? 🅿️
1. The Presqu’île parking lot in Cassis (our pick)
This is where we park every time: avenue de la Plage Bleue, on the Presqu’île, right near the entrance to the calanques and Port-Miou. We’ve always paid €10 for the day in season. It’s the shortest starting point for En-Vau.
⚠️ Heads up: in summer, it fills up very early and traffic in Cassis quickly gets complicated. The National Park actually advises against driving up there in high season. Get there before 8:30-9 a.m., or go with option 2.
2. The Gorguettes park-and-ride + shuttle
The Gorguettes park-and-ride, at the entrance to Cassis, is free. From there, bus line 373 drops you off on the Presqu’île, at the entrance to the calanques. A ticket costs €1.70 round trip (free for kids under 6). The schedule changes with the season: check the current year’s times before you go. It’s the most stress-free option in July and August.
👉 Schedules and info on the Cassis tourist office parking page.
3. Col de la Gardiole (road closed to cars)
Lots of old articles still mention the “Col de la Gardiole parking lot.” ⚠️ It no longer exists: the Gardiole road has been closed to vehicles since 2019 and the site has been restored to nature. You have to park along the Route de la Gineste (D559), between Marseille and Cassis, then walk about 3.5 km (2 miles) to the pass before starting the descent. It’s longer, but it’s a nice forest walk for those coming from Marseille.
FROM CASSIS 🏖️
From downtown Cassis, allow about 30 minutes on foot to the Presqu’île and the entrance to the calanques (Port-Miou), then the trail to En-Vau. If you’re staying in Cassis, you can do it all on foot, without worrying about parking 👌.
Spending the night before in Cassis is the best way to be on the trail while it's still cool, before the crowds and the heat.
FROM MARSEILLE (WITH OR WITHOUT A CAR) 🚆
- 🚗 By car: allow about 40 minutes to Cassis on the A50 highway, then the Presqu’île or Gorguettes parking lot. Another option: the Route de la Gineste (D559) and the hike in via La Gardiole.
- 🚆 Without a car: take a TER train from Marseille Saint-Charles → Cassis (about twenty minutes). Cassis station is outside town, but bus line 373 connects it to the Gorguettes and the Presqu’île. Perfect for a day out without any parking headaches.
ACCESS ON FOOT: TRAILS AND HIKING TIMES 🧭
From the Presqu’île, two main routes lead to the En-Vau Calanque. Both start the same way: you walk along Port-Miou, then pass Port-Pin, before choosing your path.
THE PORT-PIN ROUTE: THE DIRECT TRAIL 🥾
This is the shortest one. After Port-Miou, the trail reaches Port-Pin, a pretty little calanque with a beach shaded by pine trees. If you’re with young kids or if the heat is already intense, it’s a great alternative: we stop there every time, and it’s nice if you don’t want to go any further.
Then the trail climbs up through the En-Vau valley before dropping down to the calanque. Allow about 1 to 1.5 hours one way depending on your pace and the crowds. The end is the most technical part, with the scramble section (see below).
THE PANORAMIC TRAIL AND THE EN-VAU LOOKOUT 📸
This is our favorite route on the way there. Instead of heading straight down, you climb up onto the plateau overlooking the calanque to the En-Vau lookout. The view from above of the turquoise water and the cliffs is just insane 😍: it’s THE photo spot of the calanques.
Allow about 2 hours one way going this way, including photo stops. The trail is longer and more exposed to the sun, but it’s really worth it.
THE SCRAMBLE SECTION: WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO 🧗
To get down to the beach, you have to go through a rocky section where you climb down for a few yards. Nothing impossible with good shoes and if you take your time, but this isn’t a flip-flop stroll.
The section is narrow: two people can’t pass each other. As a result, in summer, it backs up quickly between people going down and people coming up. We won’t lie, watching some people struggle (in sandals, with a cooler and a beach umbrella 😅) is part of the show… but be patient and let others through, everyone makes it.
OUR LOOP: PANORAMIC ON THE WAY THERE, DIRECT ON THE WAY BACK 🔁
Here’s the route we do every time and recommend:
- Way there: Presqu’île → Port-Miou → Port-Pin → panoramic trail and lookout (about 2 hours).
- Climb down into the calanque via the scramble section, swim and picnic 🥪.
- Way back on the direct trail: climb back up the scramble section, then head down toward Port-Pin and the Presqu’île.
⚠️ Watch out on the way back: at the start it’s downhill, so you don’t feel a thing. But on the way back, you have to climb it all again, often during the hottest hours. That’s where the day is won or lost: save water and energy for this part.
HIKING TIMES FOR THE EN-VAU CALANQUE ⏱️
| Starting point | Route | Way there | Way back |
|---|---|---|---|
| Presqu’île parking lot | Direct via Port-Pin | 1 to 1.5 hrs | ~1.5 to 2 hrs (uphill) |
| Presqu’île parking lot | Via the lookout (panoramic) | ~2 hrs | ~1.5 to 2 hrs via the direct trail |
| Downtown Cassis | Direct via Port-Pin | add ~30 min | add ~30 min |
| Route de la Gineste (D559) | Via Col de la Gardiole | 1.5 to 2 hrs | 2 hrs or more |
Approximate times, not including breaks. With kids or in intense heat, allow plenty of extra time.
DO YOU NEED TO BOOK THE EN-VAU CALANQUE? SUMMER ACCESS RULES ☀️
DO YOU NEED TO BOOK? 🎟️
No, there’s no reservation for the En-Vau Calanque. Access is open and free all year round, subject to the summer fire-prevention rules.
The confusion comes from the Sugiton Calanque, on the Marseille side: for the past few summers, it’s been accessible with a free reservation on certain days (in 2026: June 20 and 21, every day from June 27 to August 30, then two weekends in September). It’s been talked about a lot, and the idea of extending the system to other calanques keeps coming up. Before your visit, take a look at the National Park’s Sugiton reservation page and the Park’s news to make sure nothing has changed for En-Vau.
SUMMER ACCESS RULES FOR THE MASSIFS 🔥
This is THE rule to know: from June 1 to September 30, access to the massifs in the Bouches-du-Rhône is regulated by prefectural order because of the fire risk. Every day around 6 p.m., the prefecture publishes the next day’s map, with a color code for each massif. On the highest-risk days, access can be completely banned, trails included.
👉 The day before your outing, check the prefecture’s massif access map or the Park’s official app, Mes Calanques. We’ve seen people make the trip for nothing: checking takes two minutes.
If your date is fixed (vacation, weekend), plan a backup by the water in Cassis in case of a closure.
WHEN TO GO? 📅
- 🌸 April, May, June and September: the best time in our opinion. It’s pleasant for hiking, the water is starting to be nice (still chilly, though!) and there are far fewer people.
- ☀️ July and August: it’s gorgeous, but it’s very hot on the trails, the little beach is packed and the risk of the massifs closing is at its highest. If you go then, start early in the morning (ideally set off at 7:30-8 a.m.). Our very first time was in the middle of July, in sweltering heat around 35°C (95°F) 🥵. Someone in our group got a nasty case of sunstroke, and the day was pretty rough. We still had a blast down below, the swim and the water were gorgeous… but that day, we understood why people say you have to earn En-Vau.
- ❄️ Winter: no swimming, but the hike is very pleasant and you’ll have the calanque almost to yourself.
Making a long weekend of it in the area? On the Var side, we also recommend things to do in Cotignac and the surrounding area and the Sillans waterfall, about 1 hour 15 minutes’ drive from Cassis.
SWIMMING AT EN-VAU 🌊
When you get to the bottom, the first impression is always the same: it’s beautiful. You’re at the end of this inlet, with two huge cliffs on either side and water shifting from turquoise to deep blue. Even after several visits, it still takes our breath away 😍.
We’ve swum there every time and the water is cold, even in summer: the sun takes a while to reach the back of the calanque. But after the hike, it’s exactly what you need 💙.
What to know before you lay down your towel:
- 🏖️ The beach is small and fills up fast in summer: the earlier you arrive, the more room you’ll have.
- 🚫 No lifeguard: there’s no first-aid station, so be careful, especially with kids.
- 🤿 Mask and snorkel recommended: the water is very clear.
- 🛥️ Boats often anchor at the mouth of the calanque in summer, which adds crowds and noise.
DISCOVER EN-VAU BY BOAT, KAYAK OR HELICOPTER 🚁
Don’t feel like hiking, or want to see the calanques differently? There are several options from Cassis.
BY BOAT 🛥️
From Cassis harbor, companies offer guided cruises of 3, 5 or 8 calanques, including En-Vau. It’s the ideal option with young kids or if you’re not a hiker. There are also half-day trips with a swim stop, and boat rentals with or without a license (count on at least €250 a day). The price mostly depends on the option (shared cruise or private boat) and the number of people: in a group, a rental works out much cheaper per person. Compare before you book.
BY KAYAK OR PADDLEBOARD 🛶
Guided kayak or stand-up paddleboard trips leave from Cassis to explore Port-Miou, Port-Pin and En-Vau. It’s a workout, but the view from the water, at the foot of the cliffs, is incredible.
👉 See kayak and boat trips in the calanques on GetYourGuide
BY HELICOPTER: OUR FLIGHT FROM LE CASTELLET 🚁
We did it with Adeline and we’ll never forget it: a helicopter flight over the calanques from the Circuit du Castellet, in the Var. About thirty minutes in the air, with En-Vau, Port-Pin and all the calanques seen from above 😱. Being above everyone and seeing this whole landscape at once is simply gorgeous.
Fun story: we were sharing the helicopter with another couple, and there was only one seat next to the pilot. We decided it… with rock-paper-scissors 😅. I won, and honestly, from the front you can see absolutely everything. If you get the chance, fight for that seat!
It’s a real splurge (count on around €250 per person for this kind of flight), but for a special occasion, it’s an amazing experience.
To find a flight, search for “helicopter flight over the calanques from Le Castellet”: several companies offer first flights starting at 20 minutes in the air.
WHERE TO STAY TO VISIT THE CALANQUES? 🏡
To enjoy En-Vau while it’s still cool, the best option is to spend the night before in Cassis: you can head out on foot or be the first one in the Presqu’île parking lot. Other options: La Ciotat (a bit cheaper, 15 minutes away) or Marseille, if you’re combining the city with the calanques on the Sugiton or Morgiou side.
We’ve put together a map of places to stay around Cassis and the calanques 👇
And if you’re staying in Cassis, save an evening to drive up to Cap Canaille on the Route des Crêtes at sunset 🌅: the view of the Bay of Cassis from its ocher cliffs is stunning. Like the trails, the road can be closed on very windy days or red fire-risk days.
WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE GOING TO THE EN-VAU CALANQUE 🧳
We learned these tips by going back again and again (sometimes the hard way 😅):
- 💧 Bring plenty of water: at least 2 liters per person, more in summer. There’s no water source or food on site, and nobody to help you out. It’s the number one struggle we see every time.
- 🥵 Watch out for the heat: the trails are very exposed. Cap, sunscreen, breaks in the shade. Sunstroke can hit hard (we went through it in our group), and the way back in the heat is the toughest part.
- 🥾 Real hiking shoes or trail runners: the ground is rocky and slippery, and there’s the scramble section. Forget flip-flops for the hike.
- 🥪 Pack a picnic: there’s nothing to buy along the way. And take your trash back with you.
- 🚾 No restrooms or showers.
- 🐶 Leave your dog at home: we never bring Popeye. Dogs must be kept on a leash in the core of the Park, but above all, the route is very hard on them, over scorching rocks, and in summer the heat can be fatal.
- 🚭 No smoking, fires or barbecues in the massif, all year round. Rescue teams have a very hard time reaching the calanque.
- 🔥 In summer, check massif access the day before (see above).
- 📵 Cell service is weak in places: download your route before you go.
- 🌱 Stay on the marked trails: the Park protects fragile plant life.
OUR REVIEW OF THE EN-VAU CALANQUE 💭
It’s no coincidence that we go back almost every year: for us, En-Vau is still the most beautiful calanque in Cassis, and one of the best hike-and-swim spots in the south of France. The combo of the lookout on the way there, the climb down into the calanque and a swim in the cold water is unbeatable 😍.
But let’s be realistic: it’s not an easy walk. Between the scramble section, the heat, the summer crowds and the climb back up, you have to earn it. Well prepared (early morning, lots of water, good shoes), it’s an awesome memory. Poorly prepared, it can quickly turn into an ordeal.
Our main tip: aim for May, June or September, start early, and do the loop via the panoramic trail. And if you love natural gems like this in Provence, we also recommend the Toulourenc Gorges for a hike in the water, the Blanc-Martel trail and the Imbut trail in the Verdon Gorge, or a more relaxed outing to Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. All our ideas are on our France page.
👉 What about you? Have you been to the En-Vau Calanque? Are you team panoramic trail or team boat?
FAQ: YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT THE EN-VAU CALANQUE ❓
We’ve gathered here the questions we get asked most often. If yours isn’t here, ask it in the comments and we’ll answer!
Park at the Presqu’île parking lot in Cassis (about €10 a day in season) or at the free Gorguettes park-and-ride with the 373 shuttle. Then allow 1 to 2 hours of hiking depending on the trail you choose. You can also start on foot from the Route de la Gineste via Col de la Gardiole, or discover it by boat or kayak from Cassis harbor.
No, access to the En-Vau Calanque is open and free (info checked in November 2026). The mandatory summer reservation applies to the Sugiton Calanque, on the Marseille side. However, from June to September, access to the massifs can be banned when there’s a fire risk: check the prefecture’s map the day before.
The closest parking lot is the Presqu’île lot in Cassis, avenue de la Plage Bleue. In summer, go for the free Gorguettes park-and-ride, then the shuttle to the entrance to the calanques. The Col de la Gardiole parking lot no longer exists: the road has been closed to cars since 2019.
No, no road goes down to the calanque. The car takes you to the Presqu’île in Cassis or to the Route de la Gineste, and the last part has to be done on foot (or by sea).
From the Presqu’île parking lot, allow 1 to 1.5 hours on the direct trail via Port-Pin, and about 2 hours on the panoramic trail via the lookout. The way back often takes longer because it’s uphill. From the Route de la Gineste via La Gardiole, plan on 1.5 to 2 hours one way.
By car, drive to Cassis on the A50 (about 40 minutes) or take the Route de la Gineste to start on foot via Col de la Gardiole. Without a car, take the TER train to Cassis station, then bus line 373 to the Presqu’île, where the trail starts.
It’s moderately difficult: the trail is rocky, very exposed to the sun, and the final descent includes a short scramble section. With good shoes and water, it’s doable for a fit hiker. The climb back up in the heat is often the hardest part.
Yes, with kids who are used to hiking, if you start early and avoid the hottest weather, but the scramble section calls for caution. With young kids, we’d rather recommend stopping at Port-Pin, which is easier to reach, or discovering En-Vau by boat from Cassis.
Dogs must be kept on a leash in the core of the National Park. But honestly, we don’t recommend it: the scorching rocks, the scramble section and the heat make the route very hard on them, and in summer it can be dangerous. Our bulldog Popeye never comes along.
Yes, you can swim at the small beach at the back of the calanque, but there’s no lifeguard. The water is very clear and fairly cold, even in summer. In July and August, the beach is small and fills up fast: get there early.
May, June and September are ideal: pleasant temperatures for hiking, water warm enough to swim and fewer people. In July and August, start very early to avoid the heat and the crowds, and check that the massifs are open. Winter is perfect for hiking, without the swim.
Cassis is the best base camp: you can walk to the entrance to the calanques and set off while it’s still cool. La Ciotat and Marseille are good alternatives. 👉 See places to stay in Cassis
The official name is calanque d’En-Vau, sometimes written “Envau” or “En Vau.” “Calanque en veau” is a common typo, but it’s the same calanque, between Port-Pin and Marseille, in the town of Cassis.
MY MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GEAR 🧳
The question comes up all the time when getting ready for a trip: “What should I bring?” That’s why you’ll find below some must-have travel accessories for a stress-free vacation (with your documents kept safe) 🛡️ . Planning ahead and getting these items before you leave helps you save money and avoid buying some of them on the spot, where they’ll cost you a lot more 💸 These are the accessories we took on our travels and that we keep using for every destination we travel to 👇.
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